Hotel Adagio  550 Geary St./Taylor St., 3 blks. from Union Square, (800) 228-8830, (415) 775-5000, fax (415) 775-9388; www.thehoteladagio.com.  16 stories; 171 rooms.  Fitness room.  Restaurant; room service.  Built in 1929 as the El Cortez Hotel, this Spanish Colonial Revival building now holds a clean-lined contemporary hotel.  If it were a magazine, it would be Metropolitan Home.  Its aim is to be relaxed, debonair, urbane, handsome, and sophisticated.  In guest rooms a drape serves as the closet door, and even on the top floors windows open to fresh air.  The penthouse suite features an open-air deck with a spectacular city view.  Guests are well advised to take advantage of a free tour led by the hotel's special Golden Gate Greeter corps

• Cortez  ((415) 292-6360, fax (415) 673 7080; www.cortezrestaurant.com.  D daily; $$-$$$.) specializes in Mediterranean small plates, including soup in shot glasses, frisée salad with smoked trout, prawns a La Plancha, and Katafi-crusted crab cakes.  Cocktails pair particularly well, and a dessert milkshake shot is the perfect ending.  The warm, modern décor fits with the hotel and features cork-covered columns, a rich mahogany bar, and colored orbs for lighting.   

Hotel Carlton  1075 Sutter St./Hyde St. & Larkin St. (near Polk St.), 5½ blks. from Union Square, (800) 922-7586, (415) 673-0242, fax (415) 673-4904; www.carltonhotel.com.  9 stories; 163 rooms; $$-$$$+.  Evening wine; restaurant; limited room service.  Inspired by the fact that 60 to 80% of its guests are from abroad, the hotel within this renovated 1927 building means to make guests feel like they are visiting a well-traveled aunt's home.  If it were a magazine it would be National Geographic Traveler, and it brings to mind the words eclectic, bohemian, worldly, and international.  It features an "international vintage" look and is decorated throughout with travel photographs and furnishings from around the world.  One-of-a-kind items decorate the lobby. Guest rooms feature a cream-saffron-persimmon-blue color scheme inspired by a vintage Indian sari, and original details include intricate hand-carved moldings and banisters topped with wrought-iron pinecones.  Most rooms have striking views, adjoining rooms are available, and a complimentary shuttle downtown is provided.  The exceptional staff here brings travelers back again and again. 

• Featuring ebony wood-plank floors and a cheery red-and-pink décor, Saha ((415) 345-9547, fax (415) 345-1428; www.sahasf.com.  B M-F, D Tu-Sat, SunBr; $$.) serves a traditional American breakfast--though with adventurous Arabic influences--but changes to Arabic fusion cuisine for dinner.  Tasty dinner items include knaffe (ahi with kalamata olive-walnut relish and fig sauce), fattoush (chopped salad with cucumbers, tomatoes, Feta, olives, mint, cilantro, sumac and more), and classic Moroccan couscous.  One dessert option is a molten sweet chocolate cake with pistachio ice cream.  "Saha" is an Arabic toast meaning "to good health." 

Hotel des Arts  447 Bush St./Grant Ave., across from Chinatown gate, near Union Square, (866) 285-4104, (415) 956-3232, fax (415) 956-0399; www.sfhoteldesarts.com.  51 rooms; $-$$.  Some shared baths.  Continental breakfast.  Located in the French Quarter, this renovated Victorian hotel has narrow stairs and a heavy-duty, NYC loft-style elevator.  It is updated and modernized with clean lines.  Guest room walls are painted with murals by local artists, and more of their artwork—all for sale--decorates the lobby and halls.  The Madonna Room, has an entire wall painted with Dolce &  Gabbana logos and another with the image of the star. 

Hotel Vitale  8 Mission St./The Embarcadero, (888) 890-8868, (415) 278-3700; www.hotelvitale.com. 199 rooms; $$-$$$+.  Exercise room; health spa.  Room service.  Some pets ok.  Valet parking $42.  According to owner Chip Conley, this luxury hotel is popular with "the post W, pre-Four Seasons crowd."  Designed to be modern, urbane, revitalizing, fresh, and nurturing, if it were a magazine it would be Dwell meets Real Simple.  Building materials include luxurious natural stone and wood, and a particularly nice feature has the hallway lights shining down through a leaf-embossed plexiglass cover and casting leafy shadows on the walls.  Each room's doorway holds a fragrant sprig of lavender, and the fog-colored room décor includes a puffy cloud-like bed.  About half the rooms have a bay view, and seven suites feature 270-degree "infinity views" of San Francisco.  All have a flat screen TV.   A free rooftop yoga class is scheduled each morning, and passes are provided to a nearby YMCA. 

• Americano Restaurant & Bar serves light Italian fare with a Northern California twist and offers a great bay view.  The outdoor patio is the place to be on a perfect-weather day.  A series of paintings depicting "American Dreamers" (all are friends of the chef) hang from the ceiling. 

The Huntington Hotel  1075 California St./Taylor St., Nob Hill, (800) 227-4683, (415) 474-5400, fax (415) 474-6227; www.huntingtonhotel.com.  136 rooms.  Indoor pool & hot tub; fitness room; health spa.  Restaurant.  Perched atop Nob Hill, this hotel's posh rooms feature an English-style décor and are appointed with leather, silk, damask, and velvet.  It is a popular spot with visiting authors, and many of the rooms have spectacular views. 

• The Nob Hill Spa ((415) 345-2888; www.nobhillspa.com) is in the space formerly occupied by the legendary restaurant L'Etoile.  One of the city's most luxurious spas, it sports an indoor infinity pool with a view of downtown through 18-foot high windows, saunas, steam rooms, a Jacuzzi, and a body-length Vichy shower for which the client reclines and is massaged by six jets.  Three treatment rooms have a fireplace, and one is designed for couples.  Rumor has it that Courtney Love experienced the "Nirvana" treatment here. 
• The Big 4 Restaurant ((415) 771-1140; www.big4restaurant.com.  D daily.) is known for its meat-and-potatoes menu, including specialty meats such as buffalo, ostrich, venison, antelope, and alligator.  Appointed with heavy leaded glass and forest-green banquettes, it has a club-like ambiance and is named after the nation's four most famous 19 ^th-century railroad tycoons--C.P. Huntington, Charles Crocker, Leland Stanford, and Mark Hopkins.  Displays of original artifacts and historical photographs plus live piano entertainment add to the elegant old-time atmosphere.

Where to Eat

Antica Trattoria  2400 Polk St./Union St., (415) 928-5797, fax (415) 928-2824; www.anticasf.com.  D Tu-Sun; $$.  Located on the quiet north end of Polk, in a neighborhood with interesting boutiques and lovely Victorian buildings, this inviting spot features one large open room that is paneled with dark wood topped with walls painted a warm shade of rusty red.  The talented owner-chef presents a changing seasonal menu of authentic Italian dishes.  A delicious dinner enjoyed here recently included tartufata--a butter lettuce salad tossed with a highly flavored truffle vinaigrette and chopped hard-boiled eggs; black pepper pappardelle with a reduced wild boar ragout; and vitello alla Milanese--crispy breaded veal scaloppini topped with caper aioli and served with perfectly roasted brussels sprouts.  Desserts are worth saving room for, especially the affogato sundae--white chocolate gelato topped with espresso, amaretto, and hazelnuts--and the panna cotta with huckleberries in a Zinfandel sauce. 

Bittersweet  2123 Fillmore St./California St., Upper Fillmore, (415) 346-8715; fax (415) 346-8705.  For description, see Oakland. 

Bocadillos  710 Montgomery St./Washington St., Financial district, (415) 982-BOCA, fax (415) 982-0177; www.bocasf.com.  B-L M-F, D M-Sat; $$.  No reservations.  Its name meaning literally "little sandwiches" in Spanish, this sleek, contemporary spot specializes in tapas with a Basque flair.  The mood is casual and service is quick, making it a prime stop-in for a quick, light meal.  Tasty menu items include a small serrano ham sandwich (a bocadillo) and heads-on prawns with garlic flakes and lemon confit, as well as humorously-named dishes like "pig trotters" with chopped egg salad and all-American dishes like baby back ribs.  An order of olives is a must, and save room for a delicious dessert--perhaps warm chocolate cake.  Seating is at a bar, at high tables, and at a communal center table.  Though no sangria is available, Spanish wines and international beers are good. 

Cafe Claude  7 Claude Lane/Bush St., near Grant Ave., in Financial district, (415) 392-3515, fax (415) 392-2226; www.cafeclaude.com.  L M-Sat, D daily; $$$.  Located in a narrow alley reminiscent of those in Paris, this restaurant is about as Parisian as you can get without an 11-hour flight.  The main dining room has banquettes lining each wall, adding to the Parisian feel.  But, since all the furnishings and fittings were bought in France from a restaurant that went out of business and were then reassembled here, it isn't too surprising.  Additional seating is available upstairs and outside in an alley.  The onion soup, pate plate, pan bagnat, and coq au vin are all exceptional, especially accompanied by a robust cote du Rhone.  For dessert, stick to the classics:  a tarte tatin, crème brulee, or refreshing pastis.  Live jazz is scheduled Thursday through Saturday evenings.

Cafe de la Presse   (update of listing on page 61)  352 Grant Ave., Union Square, (415) 398-2680, fax (415) 249-0916; www.cafedelapresse.com.  B-L-D daily; $$.  Highchairs, boosters.  Large windows offer views of the sidewalk, making this French brasserie the place to be for breakfast.  Dine then on croissants and lattes as well as waffles, pancakes, and oatmeal.  Lunch brings on salads, a good old American hamburger, a classic croque monsieur, and a refreshing Nicoise salad.  A perfect dinner consists of an appetizer tomato-basil-black olive tarte plus a warm fingerling potato salad topped with goat cheese and olive tapenade; grilled sea bass with mashed potatoes made delicious with a sauce Vierge; and Ile Flotante (or Floating Island)—the lightest-ever meringue floating in vanilla crème Anglaise—for dessert.  Nine beers are on tap at the impressive horseshoe-shaped bar, and 25 wines are poured by the glass.  Seating options include casual tables up front, a more formal section centered around a mammoth dessert table topped with a gigantic floral arrangement in the back, and outdoor sidewalk-side tables that are enticing on nice days.  International newspapers and magazines are for sale in the cafe's small gift shop.  The surrounding neighborhood is filled with French cafes and has become popular with French visitors.

Cafe de Paris-L'Entrecote   Closed.   (see page 61) 

Cafe Marimba  Closed.  (see page 61)

Caffé Roma  526 Columbus Ave./Green St., North Beach, (415) 296-7942, fax (415) 296-0947; www.cafferoma.com.  This atmospheric coffee house is the perfect spot for a slow cuppa cap, and is especially fragrant when the immense 50-pound coffee roaster, which takes up a corner of the shop and is visible from the sidewalk, is in action.  The roaster is the size of a small car and turns round and round like a clothes dryer. A branch is at 885 Bryant St./7^th St.

City View Restaurant  662 Commercial St./Kearny St., Financial district, (888) 234-7316, (415) 398-2838, fax (415) 398-3276.  M-F 11-2:30, Sat-Sun 10-2:30; $$.  Featuring a large, airy, open room with a wall of windows overlooking the narrow alley out front, this dim sum spot stands out for its serene atmosphere.  Classical music plays in the background as tasty tidbits emerge from the kitchen on both trays and carts.  Best among the many choices are shrimp items, including a variety of steamed dumplings; deep-fried taro "mountains"; and tiny, creamy yellow custard cups. 

D & A Café  407 Clement St./6^th Ave., Richmond district, (415) 668-7883.  Daily 8am-1am; $.  Booths.  Specials galore are served up in an extremely noisy room of diners enjoying rock-bottom-low prices.  The huge lunch rice plate easily serves two for $5 and change.  Add on just $2.25 more for a delicious mango pearl drink with black tapioca balls in the bottom.  An extensive traditional Chinese menu is also available.  A branch is at 670 Broadway ((415) 788-2822.  Daily 7am-2am; $.). 

Dosa  995 Valencia St./21st St., Mission district, (415) 642 3672; http://dosasf.com.  D Tu-Sun; $.  Reservations for 5+.  Painted bright tangerine inside, this is the only restaurant in San Francisco to offer South Indian fare exclusively.  Good starters include spicy Chennai chicken, potato croquettes, and calamari sautéed in a tasty curry sauce.  Choice main courses include a dramatic dosa--served hanging over the plate and traditionally eaten dipped into sambar and then into a chutney--or any of the full-flavored, distinctive curries (the pepper chicken curry is especially delicious).  Favorite drinks include a rich mango lassi and cocktails made with shoju—a Korean spirit made from rice and blended here to pair with the food (try a "Chai" Russian made with housemade chai or a Lychee Lush).  

Enrico's Sidewalk Cafe  Closed.  (see page 66)

Faz Closed.  (see page 67)

Fior d'Italia  Closed.  (see page 67)  Moved to 2237 Mason St./Francisco St.), in San Remo Hotel.

Giordano Bros.  303 Columbus Ave./Broadway, North Beach, (415) 397-BROS, fax (415) 397-2794; www.giordanobros.com.  L-D daily; $.  In good weather, the best seats are at one of the few tables outside.  They're tucked away from the sidewalk and provide spectacular views of North Beach street action.  Diners step up to the bar inside to order up a legendary Pittsburgh truck driver's "all-in-one" sandwich—made with a slice of Italian bread topped with the filling of choice, French fries, coleslaw, and another slice of bread.  A bit unwieldy, but tasty and filling.  That's the simple menu, though soda, beer, and cookies are also available.  Musicians jam here often. 

Golden Turtle  Closed.  (see page 70)

The Grove Fillmore  2016 Fillmore St./Pine St., (415) 474-1419.   This cozy coffee house offers inviting seating inside, including fireside couches, and also outside seating when weather permits.  Breakfast is primo, with granola, apple-and-gorgonzola toast, a peach-and-blueberry oat bar, bagels, and really good oatmeal on the menu.  Lunch brings on soup, hot pressed sandwiches, housemade entrees, and salads.  Coffee drinks galore and plenty of other beverages are always available.  A branch, The Grove, is at 2250 Chestnut St. (at Pierce St., in the Marina, (415) 474-4843. Daily 7am-11pm). 

Habana   Closed.   (see page 71)

Harbor Village  Closed.  (see page 71)

Where to Eat

Coupa Cafe  538 Ramona St./University Ave., (650) 322-6872, fax (650) 322-6874; www.coupacafe.com.  B-L-D daily; $.  Located within an historic Spanish Colonial building with tile floor, a wood-beamed ceiling, and a fireplace in the back room, this casual spot is a branch of the original café in Caracas, Venezuela.  Customers order at the counter, then select seating inside or out.  The kitchen serves up hot breakfasts, salads, soups, panini, pastas, crepes, Caribbean-style empanadas, and arepas—traditional Venezuelan white-cornmeal griddle cakes with a variety of fillings.  Picture-perfect pastries and hand-made Venezuelan chocolate bonbons perch invitingly in glass cases, and drinks include coffees made with patio-dried fair-trade Venezuelan beans and a spicy hot chocolate--all available either hot or iced. 

Junnoon  150 University Ave./High St., (650) 329-9644, fax (650) 329-9401; www.junnoon.com.  L M-F, D M-Sat; $$$.  Booths.   Choose to sit either outdoors in a heated pavilion or inside beneath tall ceilings and amid a sexy, spice-colored décor featuring gauzy curtains and bead-fringed lampshades.  Junnoon (pronounced "juh-noon") is the Hindi word for passion, energy, obsession, and the "modern" Indian cuisine here is executed with same.  Dining with a group is ideal, as it permits trying a larger variety of dishes, but another good idea is to over order and take the leftovers home for a follow-up feast.  For appetizers, semolina shells filled with chickpeas and sweetened with tamarind chutney are divine; the more unusual sprouted mung bean salad is also good.  Entrees include delicious tandoor-grilled tiger prawns in an unusual Bengali coconut-mustard sauce and a rich sliced tikka chicken in a fenugreek-seasoned, old Delhi-style tomato-onion sauce.  And then there are the sides—roasted eggplant crush, snow peas poriyal, and several raitas and chutneys.  The dessert of choice is saffron kulfi served in a crispy pistachio tuile bowl.  A cocktail menu offers unique, cleverly named concoctions such as the Manic Masala Mary (an Indian Bloody Mary) and a Buddha Belly-ni (champagne, peach schnapps, guava nectar), plus a tasty non-alcoholic Bombay ginger ale made with freshly squeezed ginger juice and fresh pineapple and raspberries.   

Nola 535 Ramona St./University Ave., (650) 328-2722, fax (650) 328-3726; www.nolas.com.  L M-F, D daily; $$.   Featuring ornate iron balconies, colorful tiles, and stone floors, this New Orleans-style spot has a warren of seating areas.  In good weather, the outdoor patio and upstairs balcony are favorites.  Genre food includes jambalaya, gumbo, crawfish dumplings, po-boys, pecan pie, and a rum-laden Hurricane cocktail that packs a wallop. 

World Wrapps  Closed.  (see page 183)

MOUNTAIN VIEW

What to Do

Computer History Museum  1401 N. Shoreline Blvd., just E of Hwy. 101, (650) 810-1013; www.computerhistory.org.  W & F 1-4 (tours at 1 & 2:30), Sat 11-5 (tours at 11:30, 1, & 2:30), Sun 1-4 (tour times vary).  Free.  Formerly the Boston Computer Museum, this comprehensive collection of computer-related artifacts moved to the Bay Area in 1999 and opened here in 2002.  Displaying 500 to 600 items (only 5% of the collection), it is the world's largest collection of computer artifacts.  It displays hardware and software as well as photos and videos.  Among the gems seen on docent-led tours are the first Apple computer (which sells now for more than it did when it went on the market), a WW II code breaker, and the 1975 Illiac IV that influenced director Stanley Kubrick for 2001.  A 1980 Japanese Sharp calculator with abacus (they didn't trust the calculator) and a 1969 Neiman Marcus "Kitchen Computer" that was priced at $10,000 (they didn't sell any) are also displayed. 

Where to Eat

Castro Street

The 100 through 300 blocks of this street are lined with exotic restaurants.  Most are inexpensive Asian, but things are beginning to change and a few more upscale venues and fusion spots have joined the array.  Among the most reliable old-timers are:

Amarin Thai  174-176 Castro St./Villa, (650) 988-9323, fax (650) 966-8309; www.amarinthaicuisine.com.  L-D daily; $.  Amarin means "I shall live forever."  Though that probably will not be the final result of a meal here, living well now will be.  The extensive menu has many vegetarian and simulated-meat dishes, as well as the more expected items.  Soft shell crab and assorted deep-fried fish with a variety of sauces are available along with more unusual items such as roasted duck salad and hot and sizzling curry.  Special ingredients are ordered in from Thailand, including teeny fresh pepper berries still on their tiny branches.  Branches are in Santa Clara ((408) 988-2982) and San Jose (5205 Prospect Rd. #110, (408) 253-8424, fax (408) 253-8833). 

Godavari  216 Castro St., (650) 969-1112, fax (650) 969-0338; www.godavari.us.  L-D daily; $$.  The extensive menu offers dosas, a variety of spicy-hot vindaloos, complete thali meals, and many tasty vegetarian selections. 

Pho Hoa  220 Castro St., (650) 969-5805; www.phohoa.com.  $.  Child portions.  This always-busy cog in a world-wide chain provides a satisfying bowl of noodle soup.  Rice plates and vermicelli bowls are also available.  Feeling ready for whatever?  Try an unusual iced white or red bean drink.

SUNNYVALE

Where to Eat

South Murphy Avenue  100 block of Murphy/betw. Evelyn Ave. & Washington, near Macy's.  This historical downtown block is filled with vintage early-1900s buildings holding many restaurants and a few boutiques.  Note that most restaurants are closed for Sunday dinner.

• Dishdash 190 S. Murphy Ave., (408) 774-1889, fax (408) 774-1896; www.dishdash.net.  L M-F, D M-Sat; $.  Reservations advised.  Booths.  Named for a traditional article of Middle Eastern clothing that symbolizes warmth and comfort (an example is displayed), this popular restaurant offers a large and interesting contemporary Mediterranean menu.  Meals begin with complimentary pita bread and zaatar--a dipping sauce of sumac, thyme, sesame seeds, and olive oil.  Ordering the Mediterranean Maza sampler platter of appetizers is a good move.  Especially delectable menu items include tabouli, hummus, kibbeh (seasoned ground lamb stuffed with pine nuts), and stuffed grape leaves.  An assortment of salads, wraps, kebabs, and vegetarian items (the m'shakaleh is exceptional) are also available.  In good weather, sidewalk tables augment the usually-crowded, tiny interior. 

MORGAN HILL

What to Do

Where to Eat

Beckett's Irish Pub & Restaurant  2271 Shattuck Ave./Kittredge St., (510) 647-1790, fax (510) 647-1793; www.beckettsirishpub.com.  Food daily 5-10.  The best bet here is to down a pint with a plate of buffalo wings or perhaps a traditional Irish lamb stew.  The atmosphere, though, is the real star.  The pub operates within a French Provincial building designed in 1925 by famed Bay Area architect W. F. Yelland.  It features brick and stone walls, gargoyles, and a cobblestone courtyard—a metal piper toots his horn atop a 40-foot tall chimney—and is on the National Register of Historic Places.  The bar and a cozy, casual dining area are downstairs, and a larger area upstairs is sometimes available.  Live music is scheduled Wednesday through Saturday. 

Café Raj  1158 Solano Ave., in Albany, (510) 524-5667.  L M-Sat, D daily; $.  Walls are the color of a mango lassi, and service is quick and pleasant.  North Indian and Pakistani dishes are made to order, allowing for fine-tuning spiciness.  Delicious curries are made with plenty of sauce and include the always popular aloo-gobi (potato and cauliflower) and chicken tikka masala (tandoori-grilled chicken in tomato-ginger sauce with nuts and raisins).  A choice of basmati rice or naan is included with each item.  A good selection of tandoori and vegetarian items is available. 

Cha-Ya Vegetarian Japanese Cuisine  1686 Shattuck Ave./Virginia St., (510) 981-1213.  L W-Sun (12-2), D daily; $-$$.  No reservations.  With only a teeny, tiny space and just a few tables, this popular spot often requires a wait at dinner.  Counter seating, with a view of the kitchen action, is sometimes an option.  Vegan vegetarian Japanese cuisine is the draw, with gyoza and tempura on the menu along with oodles of noodles and sushi.  (Vegan means that no animal products of any kind are used—"No milk, no eggs, no gelatin, no fish, no dairy.  Not even honey made by the hard working bee.")  Dishes are artfully presented and delicious.  Desserts include fresh pineapple and a chocolate mousse cake. 

Cugini  1556 Solano Ave./Peralta St., in Albany, (510) 558-9000.  D Tu-Sun; $.  No reservations.  Co-owned by three brothers and a cousin (the restaurant's name literally means "cousin" in Italian), this popular spot specializes in  Sicilian dishes.  The atmosphere is simple but pleasant.  Outstanding choices include antipasto misto—cubes of cheese, several kinds of olives, roasted whole garlic, pickled peppers, roasted veggies—and thin-crusted pepperoni pizza baked in a wood-burning oven.  Salads are good but pricey, and pastas and risotto are also available.  Take-out and The Big Night DVD are also a great way to go. 

Da Lian  1674 Shattuck Ave./Virginia St., (510) 883-1883, fax (510) 883-1856.  L M-Sat, D daily; $.  Inside the colorful tiled moongate entry lies a serene atmosphere in which to enjoy tasty Chinese fare made with the freshest ingredients.  Menu favorites include traditional dishes prepared exceptionally:  spicy hot-and-sour soup; a sautéed version of General's chicken; delicious crispy Sichuan prawns; braised, unoily eggplant in garlic sauce; terrific vegetable chow fun.  Brown rice is an option.  Lunch specials are a bargain and include salad and soup. 

Eccolo  1820 4^th St., (510) 644-0444, fax (510) 849-9465; www.eccolo.com.  L-D daily, Sat-SunB; $$$.  With a name translating as "Here it is," this sophisticated yet casual, upscale Northern Italian restaurant is appointed with a zinc bar and has two distinct dining areas, one with a retractable roof.  The signature chopped salad of radicchio and romaine, pine nuts, currants, and a blue cheese vinaigrette makes a good starter.  Main courses change regularly and include several pastas as well as fresh fish and a variety of meats (a pan-fried pork chop a la Milanese with cannelloni beans is particularly tasty).  Desserts can vary from a flavorful rhubarb cake to a disappointing chocolate zabaione.  The wine list features mostly Italian wines. 

Filippos  2930 College Ave./Ashby Ave., (510) 644-3848; www.filippos.biz.  L-D daily, Sat-SunBr; $-$$.  Reservations accepted.  This contemporary Italian spot's menu includes a variety of antipasti and small plates--among them tasty mushroom crostini—plus soups and salads.  Entrees include chicken Marsala and cioppino as well as a selection of pastas and a potato gnocchi.  The lunch menu adds sandwiches.  Service is fast and prices reasonable.  After, shopping along this trendy street is an easy way to work off a few calories.  

Fonda  1501 Solano Ave./Curtis St., in Albany, (510) 559-9006; www.fondasolana.com.  D daily; $$.  No reservations.  Latin American tapas are served here in a stylish setting.  In winter, the seasonal menu might offer roasted beets with grapefruit and jicama, sautéed prawns with salsa negra, duck tacos topped with pomegranate seeds and guacamole, and molotes—cigar-shaped crisp masa filled with housemade chorizo and potatoes.  Corn tortillas are handmade, and drinks include a tasty sangria, a minty virgin mojito, and an assortment of beer cocktails.   

Khana Peena  1889 Solano Ave./The Alameda, (510) 528-2519.  L-D daily; $$.  Reservations advised.  Vibrantly colored in warm, rich curry colors and accented with contemporary architectural touches, this Indian restaurant serves Punjab-style cuisine.  Starters include excellent potato-stuffed samosas as well as pakoras, kebabs, and several soups.  Entrees are a variety of tandoori items and curries, including a rich, creamy chicken tikka masala.  Among the many vegetarian items are chana dal (garbanzo beans) and the old standby aloo gobi (cauliflower and potatoes).  A large selection of deliciously herbed breads provide the means to getting the very last bit of tasty sauce—the potato protha, garlic naan, and whole wheat puri are particularly good, but don't miss the kabuli naan stuffed with dried cherries and nuts when it is available—and a thin mango lassi, Indian beer, or chai are the drinks of choice.  Parties of four or more (six on weekends) can reserve one of the cozy, curtain-enclosed rooms in back; they are perfect for tucking in families with unpredictable small children.  A branch is in Oakland. 

Phoenix Next Door  Closed.  (see page 280)

Smokey Joe's Café  Closed.  (see page 282)

Westside Bakery Café  2570 9^th St./Parker St., (510) 845-4852, fax (510) 549-2522.  B-L daily; $.  This  warehouse district cafe has comfortable seating in both a large, airy, open main room and in a cozier back room.  The lunch menu offers a large selection of hefty sandwiches and tasty vegetarian options.  The black bean vegetarian chili, quesadilla, and herbal iced tea with crushed blackberries are simply the best.  A bakery in back turns out freshly baked breads and pastries throughout the day--look for black bottom cupcakes, gingerbread, and a variety of oversize cookies.  

Across the street, Nolo press (950 Parker St., (510) 549-1976, fax (510) 859-0027; www.nolo.com.) operates a bookstore featuring its own famous lawyer guides and other interesting tomes. 

I-880 SOUTH

OAKLAND

Where to Eat

Bittersweet  5427 College Ave./Taft St., (510) 654-7159, fax (510) 654-7059;  www.bittersweetchocolatecafe.com.  Tu-Thur 8-7, F 8-9, Sat 9-9, Sun 9-6, closed M.   This friendly café is famous for really good hot chocolate.  Choose from a blend of dark chocolates, a classic sweet milk chocolate, a spicy chili version, and a special one just for kids.  And don't overlook chocolate chai.  Want something cold?  Try chocolate Thai iced tea or an old-fashioned chocolate milk.  Seating is limited to a few communal tables inside and benches outside, but everything is easy to carry away.  Some baked goods and an array of chocolate bars from around the world are also available. 

Blackberry Bistro  4240 Park Blvd., in Glenview area, (510) 336-1088, fax (510) 336-2088; www.blackberrybistro.com.  B-L Tu-F, D F, Sat-SunBr.  No reservations.  The brunch menu in this small corner venue is as good as it gets:  several kinds of French toast; omelettes; tofu scrambles; Mi Rancho--scrambled eggs with chorizo, black beans, and tortillas; shrimp and grits; even crepes Suzette.  Lattes are served French-style in big bowls.  The lunch menu has a good burger on a potato bun with housemade mayo; it goes perfectly with housemade blackberry-lemonade soda.  On nice days, the seating overflows on to the sidewalk out front. 

D & A Café   702 Webster St., in Chinatown, (510) 839-6223.  Daily 7am-1am; $.  For description, see "San Francisco." 

Dopo  4293 Piedmont Ave./John St., (510) 652-3676.  L M-F (11:30-2:30), D M-Sat; $$.  No reservations.  The sophisticated Italian cooking here makes the usual wait worthwhile.  Soups can be interesting—perhaps a deep-flavored lentil with chanterelle mushrooms—and the thin, crispy-crusted pizza is reliably tasty.  The ever-changing menu has offered crostone of pork, lasagna, and a memorable crab tortellini.  For dessert, don't pass up the buttermilk panna cotta.  Lunch is less crowded, and panini are available. 

Khana Peena  5316 College Ave./Bryant St., (510) 658-2300.  L-D daily; $$.  For description, see Berkeley.

Mama's Royal Cafe  4012 Broadway/40^th St., (510) 547-7600; www.mamasroyalcafeoakland.com.  B-L daily; $.  Booths.  In a cozy warren of rooms furnished with old-fashioned high-backed wooden booths and a melange of tables and chairs, this breakfast institution dishes up generous portions.  The vast breakfast menu offers scrambles and French toast, plus sides of really good home fries and grits.  Lunch brings on burgers and sandwiches.  Winners of the annual napkin art contest decorate the walls. 

New Gold Medal Restaurant  389 8^th St., in Chinatown, (510) 465-1940.  Daily 9am-3am; $.  Formerly known as Sun Hong Kong, this simple café stays open until 3 a.m.  Though the name is new the chef is the same, so the house specialty fried noodles, fresh fish items, and delicious crab in black bean sauce are still available.  Delicate filet of rock cod uses the freshest fish, and colorful Singapore chow fun is quite tasty.  Rice plates are a bargain at lunch. 

Soi4 Bangkok Eatery  5421 College Ave./Taft St., (510) 655-0889; www.soifour.com.  L M-F, D M-Sat; $$.  Reservations advised.  In this stylish spot sporting high ceilings and sleek decor, all tables have a sidewalk view through floor-to-ceiling windows.  The menu offers a sophisticated take on Bangkok street food ("soi" means "street" in Thai) and is filled with hits.  If sharing, start with soup of the day and a few skewers--the usual satays plus eggplant, beef balls, and portabella mushroom versions are options—followed by one shared entree per diner selected from noodles, sautés, and curries.  Favorites are yellow curry with chicken and potatoes, sautéed Asian eggplant and tiger prawns, and spicy wide rice noodles with chicken and basil. 

XOX Truffles  6126 La Salle Ave./Moraga Ave., in Montclair, (510) 339-9XOX, fax (510) 530-2099; www.xoxtruffles.com.  M-Sat 10-7.  For description, see San Francisco. 

FREMONT

Where to Eat

Pearl's Café  Closed.  (see page 312)

I-5 NORTH

SHASTA LAKE

Where to Stay

Tsasdi Resort  19990 Lakeshore Dr., in Lakehead, exit #702 off I-5, 25 mi. N of Redding on Sacramento Arm of lake, 3 mi. off I-5, (800) 995-0291, (530) 238-2575, fax (530) 238-8660; www.tsasdiresort.com.  20 cabins.  2-night min. Sept-May, 1-wk. min. summer.  All kitchens.  Heated pool.  Pets ok.  Pronounced "sauz-dee," this family-friendly resort is tucked into a peaceful black-oak forest with a filtered view of Shasta Lake.  Situated across the street—actually a country lane with little traffic—from the lake, updated housekeeping cabins have knotty-pine interiors with high beamed ceilings and private decks.  Many can accommodate large families.  Facilities include volleyball and basketball courts, a general store with a pool table and video games, and a private boat-dock system that guests can also fish from.  Folks tend to come back every year, often for the same week, so reserve as early as possible. 

Where to Eat

Tail O'The Whale Restaurant  10300 Bridge Bay Rd, at Bridge Bay Resort, 10 mi. N of Redding, exit #690 off I-5, 530-275-3021; www.sevencrown.com/lakes/lake_shasta/bridge_bay/restaurants.htm.  Situated up on a knoll, this restaurant has a longtime following.  Hatch cover tables, seemingly held up by thick ropes, provide a pleasant pine-filtered lake view.  The delicious tap water comes right from the lake, so no need to order bottled.  Best menu bets are surf & turf, fried chicken, chicken-fried steak, housemade meatloaf, fish & chips, and a hamburger.  Heartier appetites favor steak and chicken picatta, and Friday and Saturday nights bring on prime rib. 

DUNSMUIR

What to Do

Dunsmuir Hardware  5836 Dunsmuir Ave., (530) 235-4539.  M-Sat 8:30-5:30, Sun 10-4.  The town's oldest retail business, this historic hardware store has changed its name and location through the years but has been operating since 1894.  It's been in this 1912 brick building since 1962 and is the place to buy everything from a fishing pole to a Merle Haggard CD (he lives in the area).  Nails are still sold by the pound and rope by the foot.  Gold panning supplies are stocked, too.  The store features a high tin ceiling, natural wood floor, and ceiling fans, and a display of antique tools lines the walls. 

Where to Eat

Cornerstone Bakery and Café  5759 Dunsmuir Ave., (530) 235-4677.  B-L M&Thur, B-D F-Sun; $.  Child items; booths.  Delicious housemade baked goods, soups, salads, sandwiches, and more are on the expansive menu in this cozy, coffee shop-style spot.  Dinners and entertainment are added on weekends.  All art hanging on the knotty-pine and butter-colored walls is for sale.  Don't leave without a loaf of freshly baked bread for the road. 

MOUNT SHASTA CITY

Black Bear Diner  401 W. Lake St., (530) 926-4669; www.blackbeardiner.com.  B-L-D daily; $.  Booths.  The first link in what has become a chain throughout the West, this diner is built on the site of former wild strawberry patches that were once frequented by both black bears and people.  The menu is expansive, and the reputation is for large portions of freshly prepared diner food served fast and at a reasonable price.  Breakfast is available all day, as is black"beary" cobbler.  A long counter with swivel stools is great for singles, and some booths boast a view of the mountain. 

HIGHWAY 49--GOLD RUSH COUNTRY

NEVADA CITY

Where to Stay

Grandmere's Inn  Closed.  (see page 350)

THE HIGH SIERRA

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

What To Do:  Inside Park

Tioga Pass  Road conditions:  (209) 372-0200.  Turn off at Crane Flat for this scenic journey.  From here the legendary road climbs to 9,000 feet, where the air is clear, clean, and cool.  A stop at the Tuolumne Meadows Visitor Center (Daily 9-5; May-Sept only.) to view the lovely and informative collection of wildflower identification cards is well worth the time.  Then, at the crest, you just might recognize yellow Rabbit Brush, lavender Pussypaws, and scarlet Penstemons displayed stunningly against granite.  Minimal food service is available along this route, but picnic spots are plentiful and spectacular; be prepared.

What To Do:  Outside Park

LEE VINING

This High Sierra village is at 6,500 feet.

Visitor Information

Lee Vining Chamber of Commerce  (760) 647-6629; leevining.com. 

Where to Stay

Tioga Lodge Resort  54411 Hwy. 395, just N of town, (888) 647-6423, (760) 647-6423, fax (760) 647-6074; www.tiogalodge.com.  Closed mid-Oct to mid-Apr.  Though the original lodge was destroyed by a flood in 1956, this well-maintained re-creation includes motel rooms and cabins tucked amid sheltering mature trees.  The registration and restaurant buildings were brought down in pieces by mules and wagons from Bodie in the early 1900s and reconstructed here.  A pathway and footbridge leads over a rushing stream to a section of cabins with lake-view porches; some also have clawfoot tubs.  Two-hour boat tours depart from across the street most mornings. 

• In 1918, when the original restaurant (B-L-D Tu-Sun; $.  Child portions.) opened, it was an exclusive place to eat.  Waiters wore tuxedos, diners dressed formally, and the tables were covered with lacey linens topped with silver candelabras.  No more.  The atmosphere is casual and the well-priced food is down-home delicious, especially the Mexican specialties.  In nice weather, outdoor seating is an option. 

SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS

LOS GATOS

Where to Eat

The Chart House  Closed.   (see page 368)

WINE COUNTRY

SONOMA

What to Do

Cornerstone Festival of Gardens  23570 Arnold Dr. (Hwy. 121), (707) 933-3010; www.cornerstonegardens.com.  W-M 10-5, Tu 12-5.  $7, seniors & under 13 free.  No pets.   The approximately 20 fanciful garden spaces here (eventually there will be 30) are designed individually by landscape architects and artists.  Modeled in part after the International Garden festival at Chaumont-sur-Loire in France's Loire Valley and the Grand Metis in Quebec, Canada, this is the first gallery-style garden exhibit in the U.S.  A children's garden and play area keeps kids busy as little bees. 

• Several shops are situated outside the gardens.  Filled with garden and home enhancements, Artefact Design & Salvage ((707) 933-0660; www.artefactdesignsalvage.com.) is a don't miss. 

Sebastiani Theatre  476 First St. East, (707) 996-2020; www.sebastianitheatre.com.  $8.50, 62+ & 12 & under $5.50; Bargain Tuesday $5.  Built in 1933 by August Sebastiani, this restored vintage movie theater shows first-run films and also schedules live events. 

Sonoma Valley Museum of Art  551 Broadway/McDonell St., (707) 939-7862; www.svma.org.  W-Sun 11-5.  $5; free on Sun.  Shows change every 6 weeks. 

Where to Stay

Ledson Hotel  480 First St. East, on the plaza, (707) 996-9779, fax (707) 996-9776; www.ledsonhotel.com.  2 stories; 6 rooms.  All gas fireplaces.  Full breakfast; restaurant.  Located right on the town plaza, this hotel dupes most people into thinking it is a historical building.  Actually, it is a new structure designed and built in period style by Steve Ledson, a fifth-generation Sonoma farmer and winemaker.  A stay here makes it clear he used only the best materials.  The spacious rooms feature plenty of architectural details—crown moldings, arched doorways, Venetian plaster, elegant black marble bathrooms—plus flip-on fireplaces and heavy beveled-glass French doors leading to a small balcony.  The high beds are made with soft, smooth, cotton Frette linens and topped with a down comforter and piles of pillows.  After sampling a "welcome" bottle of delicious Ledson Sangiovese and nibbling from the fruit bowl, it is easy to relax away the late afternoon.

• Dinner in the sophisticated downstairs Harmony Restaurant and wine bar (L-D daily), with its shiny granite floors, coffered ceilings, and live piano music, is not to be missed.  Two-ounce pourings of a large variety of Ledson wines are an option. 

Where to Eat

Basque Boulangerie Cafe  460 First St. East, on the plaza, (707) 935-SOUR.  B-L; $.  This popular bakery makes breads galore—the rustic round loaf and wheat-walnut are both superb—as well as cookies, cakes, and pastries.  Dine-in and sidewalk-side breakfast and lunch are also an option, as is a take-away picnic box tied with a ribbon (must be ordered 24 hours in advance).  Everything is so delicious people are willing to wait in a usually long, long line. 

The Girl and The Fig  110 W. Spain St., in the Sonoma Hotel, (707) 938-3634, fax (707) 938-2064; www.thegirlandthefig.com.  L-D daily, SunBr; $$-$$$.  Reservations advised.  A signature arugula-goat cheese-pancetta-pecan-grilled fig salad is usually among the menu's assortment of figgy goodies in this festive spot.  Appetizers might include a charcuterie platter, entrees a Liberty duck confit with French green lentils, and desserts something flavored with intriguing herbs.  The wine list favors Rhone-style varietals from Sonoma and offers flights for comparing and contrasting.  A back patio outfitted with a fountain is primo in warm weather.   

Meritage Martini Oyster Bar & Grill  165 West Napa St./2^nd St. West, SW of the plaza, (707) 938-9430, fax (707) 938-9252; www.sonomameritage.com.  L-D W-M, Sat-SunBr; $$$.  Highchairs, semi-booths.  Decorated with an array of Venetian glass-style light fixtures (made locally by Bacchus Glass Lights) and with colorful art on mustard-colored walls, this cheery spot is known for fresh shell fish—it maintains a tank of live Dungeness crab and Maine lobster--and perfect pasta.  Salads, meats, and just about everything else on the elegant cork-bound menu is pretty good, too.  Desserts include housemade gelato and sorbet as well as affogato—a scoop of vanilla gelato topped with a shot of espresso. 

Piatti  Closed.  (see page 386)

GLEN ELLEN

Where to Eat

The Fig Cafe & Winebar  13690 Arnold Dr./Warm Springs Rd., (707) 938-2130, fax (707) 938-2370; www.thefigcafe.com.  D Thur-M; $$.  Booths.  No reservations.  Selections from the seasonal menu include thin-crust pizza, macaroni and cheese, braised pot roast, chopped salad, duck confit, and a homey butterscotch pot de crème.  Do try the Fig Royale cocktail made with champagne and Figoun liqueur, and consider bringing a favorite wine—corkage is free ! 

KENWOOD

Wineries

Ledson Winery & Vineyards  7335 Hwy. 12/Sonoma Hwy., 1 mi. W of town, in Santa Rosa, (707) 537-3810, fax (707) 538-3003; www.ledson.com.  Tasting daily 10-5.  Situated atop a knoll surrounded by Merlot vines, this majestic chateau-like building was originally built by Steve Ledson as his home.  Steve's family has been making wine since 1862, and he continues the tradition of high quality, hands-on winemaking.  The winery has three tasting bars and a well-stocked deli, and picnic tables are scattered throughout the scenic grounds.  Wines are small production and mostly 100% varietals, and they are available only at the winery.  Special events are held regularly. 

ST. HELENA

Where to Eat

Pinot Blanc  Closed.  (see page 404)

CALISTOGA

Wineries