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PREVIOUS UPDATES WEEKEND AVENTURES IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA Updates to 7th edition by Carole Terwilliger Meyers Do yourself a favor and buy the new 8th edition of WEEKEND ADVENTURES IN SAN FRANCISCO & NORTHERN
CALIFORNIA. An unfortunate side effect of these difficult times is that many travel-related businesses are failing. Between the dot-com bust,
the September 11 attacks, and the resulting recession, closures have been numerous. Closings we're aware of that are listed in the 7th
edition of WEEKEND ADVENTURES IN NORTHERN CALIFORNIA are also posted here . SAN FRANCISCO What to Do Ansel Adams Center for Photography
Closed. (see page 23) Cobb's Comedy Club 915 Columbus/Lombard St., in North Beach, (415) 928-4320; www.cobbscomedy.com. Sun-Thur at 8, F & Sat at 8 & 10:15.
Cover ($7-$30) + 2-drink minimum. Minors 16 & 17 years old are welcome with parent or legal guardian. Validated parking nearby. Newly moved to this location, this popular club features live
stand-up. A full bar and dinner menu are available. Dining in guarantees best seating, but all seating is good. The dinner menu includes delicious, well-spiced entrees such as achiote-rubbed chicken or
grilled halibut. A cafe menu served during the show includes popcorn shrimp and calamari, crispy Dungeness crab rolls, a focaccia burger, and an ice cream sundae topped with housemade butterscotch and hot
chocolate. Golden Gate Park Stables Closed. (see page 32) Magic Theatre Bldg. D, in Fort Mason Center, (415) 441-8822;
www.magictheatre.org. This is the only major Bay Area theatre company dedicated solely to producing new plays. Founded in 1967 at the legendary, long-gone Steppenwolf Bar in Berkeley, it has presented
more than 200 premieres by some of the greatest writers of our time, including the 2001 world premiere of Sam Shepard's The Late Henry Moss, starring Sean Penn, Nick Nolte, Woody Harrelson, and Cheech Marin; and
the 2004 world premiere of David Mamet's Dr. Faustus. M. H. DeYoung Museum Closed. (see page 23) Where to Stay Hotel Majestic 1500
Sutter St./Gough St., in Pacific Heights, (800) 869-8966, (415) 441-1100, fax (415) 673-7331; www.thehotelmajestic.com. 5 stories; 58 rooms; some gas fireplaces. Fitness facility nearby. Afternoon
snack; restaurant, room service. Valet parking. Built originally as a private mansion in 1902 and converted to a hotel in 1904, this small Edwardian hotel survived the 1906 earthquake and fire and is the
longest continuously operating hotel in San Francisco. It has been restored to its original grandeur with gorgeous vintage marble, exotic woods, and rich brocades and wallpapers, and it sports bay windows and high
ceilings. Each sumptuously decorated room has either a canopied four-poster bed or a two-poster bed with a bonnet canopy, and fine French and English antiques are used throughout. Many rooms have clawfoot
tubs. It offers a cozy, soothing retreat from the world outside. Why even rock stars have been known to head straight for their posh room immediately after a concert to cocoon. And speaking of that,
Julia Roberts, The GoGos, and numerous nobel laureates have all slept here, and the hotel was once the permanent residence of actresses Joan Fontaine and Olivia de Havilland. Limousine service to downtown is
available on weekday mornings. Avalon, an adjacent bar named for a butterfly, features a 19th-century, horseshoe-shaped French mahogany bar imported from Paris and displays a collection of rare butterflies from
South America and Africa. Where to Eat Alborz Restaurant 1245 Van Ness Ave./Sutter St., (415) 440-4321. L&D daily; $-$$. This simple but
comfortable spot offers an exceptional Persian menu. For appetizers, don't miss the kasik bodemjan (roasted eggplant baked with onion, garlic, mint, and yogurt), the mast-o-khiar (cucumber and mint mixed with
yogurt), and salad shirazi (a mixture of diced tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions in a lemony dressing). For entrees, any of the kabobs are excellent, but don't overlook the more complex house specialties--including
a richly flavored fesenjoon consisting of chicken breast cooked in a thick, delicious, and sweet walnut-pomegranate sauce. The perfect ending is, of course, a baklava. Entrees are served with basmati rice
colorfully splashed with saffron, and the delicious rich yogurt is homemade. Alioto's #8 Fisherman's Wharf, at bottom of Taylor St., (415) 673-0183, fax (415) 673-3894. L&D daily;
$$-$$$. Booths, child portions. Validated parking lot. The view here is about as San Francisco as you can get--the fishing boats, the bay, The Bridge--and plenty of oversize booths and window-front
tables provide comfortable seating. Since it is located at Fisherman's Wharf, it isn't surprising that the specialty is seafood. Fresh fish items are always a good choice, but the many Sicilian regional
specialties are also worth trying. Spicy deviled crab, served in a scallop shell, and pan-fried sole picatta are particularly tasty. Pastas, including a potato gnocchi with creamy tomato sauce, and a few
meat dishes share the menu. Portions are bountiful, and both European wines and New World wines are served Old World-style in volume-marked glasses. For six to ten people, the charming little Calamari Room
off the main dining room can be reserved for special events. Historical photos of the Wharf line the stairway up to the restaurant. Downstairs, the Oysteria, a fast-service seafood deli, serves up
sandwiches, seafood salads, and brick-oven pizzas. Don't miss seeing David Mizer at the crab stand out front. Sometimes referred to as "the Mozart of crab-crackers," he puts on quite a show tossing his
plastic hammer in the air like a baton as he cracks shells. Black Cat Closed. (see page 59) Brasserie Savoy in Savoy Hotel Closed. (see page 46)
The Canvas Cafe/Gallery 1200 9th
Ave./Lincoln, Inner Sunset, cafe (415) 504-0060, gallery (415) 504-0070, fax (415) 504-0010; www.thecanvasgallery.com. Sun-W 8am-midnight, Thur-Sat to 2am; $. Free parking in back. On a busy
corner near the Hall of Flowers in Golden Gate Park, this innovative cafe operates in one large, open room with tall ceilings and a variety of seating areas. Decor is industrial chic. Diners order at the
counter and then items are delivered to the table. Especially good are the individual hummus and babaganouch plates served with superb pita triangles. A large selection of sandwiches, salads, entrees, and
pastries is also available. Drinks include delicious made-from-scratch cream sodas as well as thick pudding-like traditional Spanish hot chocolate and assorted coffee drinks. The works of emerging artists
hang on the wall, and evening events are scheduled regularly. Chez Papa Bistrot 1401 18th/Missouri sts., on Potrero Hill, (415) 824-8210. L M-Sat, D daily. D
reservations advised. Count on a wait, as there is usually a line out the door at this tiny, cozy French-style bistro. A comfortable banquette lines the wall, and the din of happy dinners can be
positively deafening—making it a great place to go if talking is not of primary interest. The menu is broken into starters and small plates—how about a soothing bowl of pureed cauliflower soup or a plate of seared
scallops and fava beans?—and larger entrees—perhaps a roasted chicken or fragrant lamb daube. It doesn't really matter. The entire menu is delectable. Citizen Cake 399 Grove
St./Gough St., Hayes Valley/Civic Center, (415) 861-2228, fax (415) 861-0565; www.citizencake.com. B (pastries only),L&Dessert (3-5pm), D Tu-F, Sat&SunBr; theme D on Sun. Though the dining room
is small and waits can be long, the counter usually turns over quickly. It is also possible to just give up and order take-out. But it is nice being seated in the sleek, modern, industrial-style interior
here, with a soothing view out the tall windows. Most items are housemade, and everything is delicious. A recent lunch here began with a bowl of hot chocolate prepared with Scharffen Berger bittersweet
chocolate and topped with a fabulous housemade marshmallow. One diner feasted on a Cuban marinated pork-havarti cheese sandwich prepared with a scrumptious housemade bread, the other on a puffy Molinari pepperoni
pizza. A dessert from the celebrated pastry kitchen is not to be missed--maybe a vanilla cupcake with white chocolate frosting along with a bag of mixed cookies to take home. When leaving, do take time to
view the glassed-in demonstration pastry kitchen and perhaps stop in at the art gallery next door. Clémentine 126 Clement St./3rd
Ave., Richmond District, (415) 387-0408, fax (415) 387-0782; www.clementinerestaurant.net. D Tu-Sun, SunBr; $$. Reservations advised. Day-dreaming about a trip to the south of France but don't
want the bother and expense of getting there? Voila! A dinner at this popular neighborhood restaurant will fulfill your fantasy, complete with servers bearing charming French accents but no attitude.
It's maybe even better
than France, and the French bread is certainly as good. A park-like entry marks the spot with pottery-bound trees threaded with tiny lights. Diners are seated in the cozy, welcoming interior at tables decorated with such nice touches as lush fresh flowers and salt and pepper in tiny bowls with weensy scoops. Appetizers on the mouth-watering menu include a soup of the day, perfectly dressed salads, and seasonally a fresh pear tart or steamed mussels. Main courses might be roasted salmon with porcini mushroom raviolis and sorrel sauce, or roasted quail plumped with foie gras mousse and baby vegetables. More classic items, such as escargots or steak and frites are also offered. Dessert brings on vanilla creme brulee, poached pears with chocolate sauce, and caramelized French toast. Allow time before dinner to stroll Clement Street and check out the interesting, mostly-Asian shops that fill the area (a 6 p.m. walk, with dinner at 7 works well).
Doidge's Closed. (see page 64) Gabbiano's Closed. (see page 67) Habana 2979 Van Ness Ave./Pacific St., (415) 441-CUBA;
www.habana1948.com. D daily; $$$. Valet parking.
A low-key island decor sets the mood with wrought-iron chairs and screens, potted palms, and colorful crockery--transporting diners mentally to far-away Cuba in the far-off time of post-World War II. Do start with a delicious cocktail—perhaps the Ernest Hemingway daiquiri or a minty mojito—and a few appetizers—both the heart of palm salad and spicy pork empanadas are not to be missed. Bread with a tasty dipping sauce is complimentary. Main courses include fresh fish, marinated skirt steak, and duck breast with a Caribbean tang. Off the entrance, a long bar resembling a diner serves up several cerviches and offers additional seating.
Hamburger Mary's Closed. (see page 69) Kokkari 200 Jackson St./Front St., in Financial District, (415) 981-0983, fax (415) 982-0983. L M-F, D daily; $$$.
Reservations advised. Valet parking.
Named for a small island fishing village on the island of Samos in the Aegean Sea, this stylish, expansive, upscale-rustic restaurant serves sophisticated versions of Greek cuisine. Starters include traditional spanakotiropita (spinach-filled filo pies) and pikilia (an array of delicious classic spreads served with housemade grilled pita and rice-filled dolmathes). Entrees include fabulous grilled lamb chops with memorably good baked potato wedges, a grilled whole striped bass, and what might be the best rendition of moussaka west of Athens. Among the worthy desserts are a creamy rice pudding with poached peaches and cherries, and an expansive array of delectable Greek cookies and baklava. Plan to wash them down with strong Greek stoneground coffee prepared in a giant urn over hot sand, or with a glass of ouzo selected from a list of ten. Seating here is a decided bonus, with many comfortable booths and upholstered chairs.
A sister restaurant, Evvia, is located in Palo Alto. Kowloon Vegetarian Restaurant Closed. (see page 17) Little City Closed. (see page 72)
MacArthur Park 607 Front St./Jackson St., Financial District, (415) 398-5700, fax (415) 296-7827. L M-F, D daily; $$-$$$. Highchairs, boosters, child menu. Reservations advised.
Valet parking at D. Long popular for its flavorful house-marinated and smoked baby back ribs (perfect with a side of garlic mashed potatoes and a glass of zingy Zinfandel), this reliable spot also serves up a
huge and delicious appetizer of onion strings made with sweet Spanish onions and a killer Turtle Pie dessert with a pecan crust topped with chocolate ganache and caramel sauce. A great burger and several
meal-sized salads are also on the menu. Dining among the two mature ficus trees (sparkling with lights in the evening) does bring to mind a park, though in reality you're within the gorgeous exposed red-brick
walls of a renovated early 1900s Barbary Coast warehouse. A cup of crayons for coloring on the butcher paper table cloth plus a selection from the extensive menu of "big city drinks" will tide you over until your order
arrives. The Magic Flute 3673 Sacramento St./Spruce St., Presidio Heights, (415) 922-1225; www.magicfluteristorante.com. L M-F, Sat&SunBr, D W-Sat; $$. Reservations
advised. Situated within a vintage Victorian on a low-key, high-quality shopping street, this pleasant spot offers comfortable indoor tables as well as outdoor garden seating. The work of local artists
colorfully decorates the sponge-painted walls. Among the lunch items on the California-Italian menu are salads and pastas as well as a great cheeseburger and portobello foccaccia sandwich. A few of these
items stay on the brunch menu, when egg dishes are added. The housemade desserts include a killer double fudge chocolate cake and a rich, rich tiramisu. Mike's Chinese Cuisine
Closed. (see page 74) Morton's of Chicago 400 Post St./Powell St., on Union Square, (415) 986-5830, fax (415) 986-5829. D daily; $$$. Reservations required. The first
Morton's steakhouse opened in Chicago in 1978. This clubby subterranean outpost, decorated with historical photographs on the wall, is the place to go when a red meat attack occurs. The minimum 14-ounce cut
of tender, tasty, prime grain-fed beef served here (the filets get as big as a colossal 48 ounces, though that is meant for two) require a substanial cutting tool, and so a large Bowie-style knife is at each place
setting to assist. Noteworthy side dishes include a heavenly lobster bisque, sauteed wild mushrooms, and a gigantic baked Idaho potato. Lamb chops, fresh fish, and fresh Maine lobster are also on the limited
menu. Though it might be impossible, try to save a little room for one of the decadent desserts, which include an exquiste Godiva Hot Chocolate Cake and a New York cheesecake brought in from the Bronx (the latter
is the only menu item not prepared on-site). According to one happy diner, the reason it gets so noisy here is "so you don't hear your arteries slamming shut." Leave your guilt at home.
Picnic Pick-Ups. Panelli Bros. Italian Delicatessen Closed. (see page 76) Ramblas 557 Valencia St./6th
St., (415) 565-0207, fax (415) 565-0249; www.ramblastapas.com. D daily, Sat-SunBr; $$. Booths. Reservations advised. In a deep room featuring kitchen and street views, this festive tapas bar
serves a variety of the tasty Spanish tidbits that just might be better than those found in Spain. The marinated olives, boquerones (white anchovies), piquillos (sweet red peppers filled with goat cheese),
empanadillas (little turnovers filled with chorizo and spinach), and gambas (shrimp baked in garlic and olive oil) are all exquisite. Several paellas are also available. Special drinks include ThirstyBear
draft beers, fruity Sangria, and a minty Mojito, and desserts include both flan and cinnamony churros with warm chocolate sauce. Live flamenco guitar is scheduled on Monday and Tuesday evenings.
Sanraku 704 Sutter St., near Union Square, (415) 771-0803, fax (415) 771-0893; www.sanraku.com. L M-F, D daily; $-$$. Parking validated in 800 block. Service is delightfully welcoming in this
tiny Japanese restaurant. Choose sushi from the small sushi bar, or better yet order it combined with a teriyaki, tempura, or donburi entree. Shrimp tempura consists of a generous portion of perfectly
deep-fried shrimp and assorted vegetables. Dinners come with a green salad, soup, and rice. A branch is at the Metreon (101 4th St.). Scott's Seafood Grill & Bar
Closed. (see page 78) Shanghai 1930 133 Steuart St./Mission St., (415) 896-5600, fax (415) 896-5688. L M-F, D daily; $$-$$$. Stepping down the curving red-carpeted
staircase leading to the cozy womb of the spacious Blue
bar, then moving beyond into the subterranean dining room ringed with comfy booths is a trip into our mind's eye vision of a mysterious Chinatown adventure. In fact, the restaurant is modeled after Shanghai's between-wars atmosphere, when it was known as the "Paris of the Orient." For members of the fragrant private cigar club, located behind frosted glass doors in the
Guanxi Lounge, the image is taken a step further, bringing on visions of opium dens. But back to the restaurant. The sounds of live jazz from the bar carry deliciously into the dining room, adding a
dreamy quality to the experience. It seems hard to go wrong on the extensive menu featuring unusual, artistically arranged dishes such as minced duck in lettuce petals, sweet tangerine beef with celery hearts, hot
and red firecracker chicken, and striking Jade & Ebony (succulent black mushrooms and jade-green baby bok choy). A dessert of sesame seed-covered bananas, flambéed table-side and served with a trio of sorbets,
is not to be missed. Creative cocktails--the seeming drink of choice--and a large wine menu are available. Speckmann's Closed. (see page 78) Stars
Closed. (see page 79) Tavolino Closed. (see page 80) Ti Couz Cr êperie 3108 16th St./Valencia St., in Mission District, (415) 25-CRÊ
PE. M-F 11am-11pm, Sat & Sun from 10am; $. Always busy as a beehive, this Brittany-style French crêperie whips up a vast variety of the delicious pancakes. Choose either a savory buckwheat flour delight--perhaps a jambon and fromage (ham and cheese) or a champignon
(mushroom with sauce)--or a whole wheat sweet concoction--the orange butter is light, while the popular chocolate with banana is more substantial. A few soups, salads, seafood items, and crêpe ice cream cones are also on the menu. Fresh citrus juices, and occasionally peach juice, make refreshing accompaniments, but a full bar is also available.
Seating options are as ample as the menu, but the best choice is likely the counter facing the line, where the cooks can be viewed in action. Parking is extremely difficult.Town Hall
342 Howard St./Fremont St., (415) 908-3900, fax (415) 908-3700; www.townhallsf.com. L M-F, D daily; $$$. 1 highchair, 1 booster. Reservations advised. Sitting in the wide-open, high-ceilinged
main dining room here is the best, but when the place is jammin', a communal table near the bar is a good alternative. The historic brick building it is within is the former Marine Electric warehouse, built just
after the 1906 quake. Floors are stained the color of dark chocolate, and handmade wooden tables and chairs and original brick walls add to the inviting mood. Starter specialties include seafood chowder with
housemade sourdough crackers, and steamed mussels in Old Bay tomato broth. Should scrumptious wild mushroom lasagna be among the choices on the ever-changing, mostly American menu, don't hesitate. Desserts
are homey and special—warm pineapple upside down cake, pear-and-sour cherry crisp, butterscotch pot de crème—and the hot chocolate made with Parisian cocoa is like velvet. Yank Sing
427 Battery Street has closed, but the restaurant has reopened nearby at 101 Spear Street. (see page 64) Zazie 941 Cole St./Parnassus, Cole Valley, (415) 564-5332;
www.sfstation.com/restaurants/zazie/index.htm. B,L,&D daily; $-$$. No reservations. Situated in an often sunny, always appealing neighborhood and featuring a cozy ambiance, this small spot has
tall ceilings, brick walls, and a garden patio for sunny-day dining. Breakfast offers vast choices, some common, some less so: Irish oatmeal with blueberries, gingerbread pancakes with roasted pears, eggs
with spicy Merguez lamb sausage, and colorful poached eggs Valence topped with roasted eggplant, goat cheese, and a spicy tomato sauce. Lunch brings on delicious sandwiches and salads. A citron presse and
chocolat chaud are reminiscent of Paris, as is the restaurant in general, but the blend of cranberry juice, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and bubbly water that is the Zazie spritzer is most definitely the drink of
choice. Should the wait to get in be ridiculous, plenty more restaurants are nearby: an Italian restaurant, a sushi bar, a creperie, a burger shack, a coffee house, and a French bakery serving huge French
cafe au laits. COAST SOUTH PRINCETON-BY-THE-SEA Where to Eat Half Moon Bay Brewing Company 390 Capistrano Rd., (650) 728-BREW, fax (650)
728-7563; www.hmbbrewingco.com. Highchairs, boosters, child menu. L & D daily; $-$$. Featuring a dining room consisting of cozy niches decorated with a rustic, woodsy decor of unfinished
sandblasted wood, this pleasant spot has great views of the harbor and is ideal for a relaxing meal. The noise level is subdued by carpeting, and children fit in well. The menu is the same all day, with a
well-priced "pub grub" section of sandwiches and burgers and the de rigueur fish & chips. Soups, salads, and heartier entrees--fresh fish, ribs, steak--are also available. Kids can choose macaroni
and cheese, a peanutbutter & jelly sandwich, or a grilled cheese sandwich from a coloring menu. Desserts are rich and gooey--brownie a la mode, a root beer float, chocolate mousse cake. Diners can also
order from the full menu in the horseshoe-shaped bar (videos of surfing at nearby Mavericks are always running here) and adjacent patio equipped with heaters and firepits--both with an ocean view. Beers are brewed
elsewhere now, but the tanks are coming. Meanwhile, try a Mavericks Amber Ale or a Sandy Beach Blonde. HALF MOON BAY Where to Eat Cameron's Pub 1410 S.
Cabrillo Hwy. (Hwy. 1), (650) 726-5705, fax (650) 726-9613; www.cameronsinn.com. Child menu. Daily. Home to the world's only double-decker smoking bus and maybe also the world's only double-decker
video game bus, this neighborhood pub fills a warren of rooms. Its extensive menu includes baked potatoes, homemade soups, sandwiches, pizza, and burgers, plus homemade pies, a full soda fountain with sundaes and
shakes, and 26 beers on tap. Pub-style games include shuffleboard, darts, pinball, chess, and pool, and authentic English telephone booths are positioned both inside and out. Live entertainment is scheduled
regularly. Celebrities staying at the nearby Ritz-Carlton sometimes stop in (Pierce Brosnan and family have been patrons), but everyone is welcome—even babies and great-grandmums. A replica English village
shop sells imported English food staples and goods. Don't forget to pick up a copy of the humorous, free Cameron's Gazette. Want to stay the night? Three B&B rooms are just upstairs. Two
rooms share a bath, and, surprisingly since they are billed as B&B, breakfast is not included. PESCADERO What to Do Lighthouse tours at
Pigeon Point Lighthouse Hostel have been suspended. (see page 91) Phipps Country Store and Farm 2700 Pescadero Rd./Hwy. 1, 1/2 mile east of town, (650) 879-0787, fax (650)
879-1622; www.phippscountry.com. Daily 10-5, Apr-Oct to 6. Farm admission: Apr-Sept, 10-59 $2, 5-9 $1; Oct-Mar, free. Plants, fresh produce, herbs and spices, and 60 varieties of dried
heirloom beans can be purchased from the country store. Fresh goose eggs are often for sale from January through July (geese do not lay eggs year round). A small fee is charged to spend the day on the
50-acre organic farm, which offers pick-your-own strawberries and blackberries in season. The fee also permits viewing domestic farm animals--including pigs, goats, and chickens--as well as exotic birds and a
songbird aviary. Picnic facilities are available. SANTA CRUZ Where to Eat India Joze Closed. (see page 97) APTOS What to Do Aptos Gardens 5870 Soquel Dr./Park Ave., Park Ave. exit of Hwy. 1, in Soquel, (831) 462-3859. Tucked back from the street, this nursery is full of delightful nooks and crannies and
arranged more like a public garden. The specialty is locally grown old-fashioned plants. English roses, scented geraniums, and climbing hydrangeas are among the many lovely choices, and brilliant morning
glories and fragrant sweet peas are among the imports from England. An enticing selection of accessories is displayed, including bird baths, colorful lawn furniture, and tables made with broken china.
Wisteria Antiques ((831) 462-2900, fax (831) 462-1346), specializing in French country accessories, is a separate shop in the back. PACIFIC GROVE Where to Eat Fandango
223 17th St./Lighthouse Ave., (831) 372-3456, fax (831) 372-2673. L M-Sat, D daily, SunBr. Reservations advised. With a warren of small rooms, this chic, casual spot serves an eclectic
menu of delicious continental-style cuisine: crisp duck a l'orange, mesquite-grilled seafood and meats, mediterranean couscous, paella, and pastas. Decadent housemade desserts include a frozen Grand Marnier
souffle big enough for two. Patio seating is available. COAST NORTH MENDOCINO Where to Eat The Moosse Cafe 390 Kasten St./Albion St.,
(707) 937-4323; www.theblueheron.com. L&D daily; $-$$. Salads, soups, dinner specials. This sparely decorated restaurant operates inside a reconstructed converted house. The original house
burned to the ground in 1994, and in 1995 it was completely rebuilt--as close to the original as possible--in the identical footprint. With a decor of blond wood floors and featuring a brick fireplace in the main
dining room, it has numerous dining nooks and crannies and an outdoor patio. A few choice tables sit in front of a window overlooking a flower garden and the ocean beyond. This cafe has fed Julia Roberts and
Sean Penn, and Angela Lansbury and her husband regularly ate dinner here during the shooting of "Murder She Wrote." In fact, the house stood in as the travel agency depicted in that TV series. These
celebrities and everyone else probably choose to eat here because everything is so innovative and tasty. The lunch menu might include a delicious electric-orange pureed yam soup; a lip-smacking-good bowtie pasta
salad mixed with chicken breast, asparagus, fennel, green beans, sweet peppers, and celery tossed with a buttermilk-tarragon dressing; or a hot linguini prepared with rock shrimp, shitake and porcini mushrooms, sweet
peppers, and tomatoes and tossed with an unusual, colorful butternut squash sauce. Dinners are more substantial, with cioppino, a boneless roasted crispy chicken, and osso bucco among the choices. Desserts
include an old-fashioned creamy chocolate pudding, a light lemon mousse, and a warm bread pudding. FORT BRAGG Where to Eat The Gardens Grill
Closed. (see page 155) 101 SOUTH BRISBANE Where To Stay Radisson Hotel San Francisco Airport at Sierra Point 500 Sierra Point, 2 mi. north of
airport, (800) 333-3333, (415) 467-4400, fax (415) 467-4440; www.radisson.com. 210 rooms. Indoor pool & hot tub; fitness center. Restaurant; room service. This comfortable business hotel
features large rooms, many with two queen beds and some with a view of the bay and airport traffic. Complimentary shuttle service is provided to and from San Francisco Airport. Xebec
restaurant and bar features a colorful, trendy decor and good interpretation of American dishes. SAN MATEO Where to Eat Kaimuki Grill 104 S. El Camino Real/Second Ave.
& Crystal Springs Rd., (650) 548-9320. L Tu-F, D M-Sat; $-$$. Boosters. No reservations. Japanese cuisine with California and Hawaiian accents is served in this simple, yet atmospheric,
venue. Choose from a menu that includes Chinese-style won ton-ramen noodle soup and a large variety of sushi. Housemade noodle dishes and small appetizer items--eggplant stuffed with ground chicken, shitakes
stuffed with ground beef--are primo. 231 Ellsworth 231 S. Ellsworth Ave./3rd Ave., (650) 347-7231, fax (650) 347-7329; www.231ellsworth.com. L M-F, D M-Sat; $$$. In
the sophisticated atmosphere of a darkened dining room with deep-colored brown walls, a surprising deep blue ceiling, and crispy white nappery, this stylish restaurant delivers a small but palate-pleasing menu of
California dishes. Chef William Collier, who has worked in many kitchens, including Tavern on the Green in NYC, likes to make complex mixtures and use unusual mushrooms. My dinner started with a delicate
prawn and quail egg tempura presented with a spicy green papaya salad and a light, flavorful passionfruit dipping sauce. My dining companion had a warm fris é
e and endive salad topped with goat cheese, hazelnuts, and a sherry vinaigrette. Our entrees were a delicate sole with fava beans and Hon Shemiji mushrooms, and full-flavored, absolutely delicious lamb loin
cutlets with a ragout of Black trumpets, olives, and basil gnocchetti. A five- and seven-course tasting menu is also available, along with selected wines. Desserts were a divine daily special milk chocolate
tart with caramel sauce and cashews, and a true-flavored pear sorbet with a delicate Riesling gelée. Attentive service and unobtrusive background music
enhance this special occasion dining spot. A comfortable bar area in front is also worth a visit, and late-night dessert is available. WOODSIDE Where to Eat Buck's
3062 Woodside Rd./Cañada Rd., (650) 851-8010, fax (650) 851-8959; www.buckswoodside.com. B-L-D daily; $$. Highchairs, boosters, booths, child menu. Reservations advised. Especially popular
in the morning, when local computer executives gather for power breakfasts of buckwheat pancakes and huevos rancheros, this attractive spot is filled with comfy booths and lots of windows. It's sort of like an
updated old-time coffee shop, but with a full bar. Breakfast is served until 2:30 on weekends and includes all the usual suspects plus an extensive selection of omelettes and pancakes. Lunch brings on soups,
salads, sandwiches, burgers, and a popular chili. American-style entrees are added at dinner along with a few more frou-frou items such as lobster ravioli with red pesto sauce or baked local halibut with pineapple
salsa. Dessert portions are large enough to satisfy two or three people—the menu claims "all desserts have been tested by the American Trucking Association and found to be way too large"--and include a signature
hot fudge sundae and delicious peach cobbler. Should boredom set in, just check out the mish-mash of curiosities lining the walls. PALO ALTO What to Do
Museum of American Heritage 351 Homer Ave./Waverly St., (650) 321-1004, fax (650) 473-6950; www.moah.org. F-Sun 11-4. Free. Situated inside a charming converted English country-style
house that it rents from the city, this non-profit institution is filled with 19th- and 20th-century electrical and mechanical inventions. Among the 2,000-plus artifacts are obsolete typewriters, toasters, washing
machines, and cameras--all arranged into themed settings such as The Kitchen, The Laundry, and The General Store. Volunteers are sometimes on hand to demonstrate a group of elevator models and the Linotype machine
in The Print Shop set up in a garage out back. Special exhibits, enticing classes, and a large garden also beckon. Where to Stay Westin Palo Alto 675 El
Camino Real, (800) WESTIN-1, (650) 321-4422, fax (650) 321-5522; www.westin.com. 184 rooms; $$$+. Pool, hot tub. Restaurant. Optional valet parking $12. Equipped with the upscale
features expected of this chain--spacious marble bathrooms, the soft as down-topped "heavenly bed"--this new location has a Mediterranean design featuring large Etruscan-style vases in the five courtyards. Where to Eat Mango Cafe 435 Hamilton Ave./Waverley, (650) 324-9443. L M-F, D daily. Highchairs. Reservations accepted. Traditional Jamaican,
Trinidad, and Tobago cuisines dominate the menu. Chicken roti from Trinidad is a combination of curried chicken, potatoes, and veggies wrapped up burrito-style. Jamaican beef and chicken patties have a flaky
crust, and vegetarian Rasta Pea Cook-Up includes a variety of beans along with unusual cho-cho. Curried goat and the house specialty, jerked chicken, are also available. The menu also offers a large
selection of playful tropical smoothies, as well as a blend-your-own version—all served in humungous globe glasses with a big straw. Though the decor is simple, the dining room is comfortable and service is
friendly and efficient. Straits Cafe 3295 El Camino Real/Lambert Ave., (650) 494-7168, (650) 494-0188; www.straits-cafe.com. L & D daily; $$-$$$. In warm weather,
the tropical-style outside patio of this stylish restaurant is prime. Among the intriguing menu choices are Ikan Pangang, a delicious salmon filet spiced with fresh chili sauce and grilled in a banana leaf, and
Mee Goreng, a spicy Indian-style noodle dish with tofu and prawns. Desserts are stand-outs, among them a silky banana pudding shaped like a cone. Live jazz is scheduled on Friday and Saturday nights.
For more description, see page 80. Tamarine 546 University Ave./Cowper St., (650) 325-8500, fax (650) 325-8504; www.tamarinerestaurant.com. L M-F, D daily; $$. Reservations advised.
This sophisticated new wave Vietnamese restaurant displays the work of contemporary Vietnamese artists. Semi-annual auctions are scheduled, and profits are donated to a Ho Chi Minh City orphanage. The
menu offers an array of delicious and dazzling small plates meant to be shared. Among the best are ginger-chicken salad (with cabbage, cashews, and carmelized onions), shaking beef (a toned-down version served on
watercress salad), and delicate chili-lime aubergine (grilled white eggplants). Several kinds of flavor-infused rice served attractively in a banana leaf wrapping finish the main courses. Do leave space for
the chocolate-filled dessert won tons. SUNNYVALE What to Do The Lace Museum 552 S. Murphy Ave./El Camino Real, (408) 730-4695. Tu-Sat 11-4. Free.
Located in a small strip mall, this small museum displays all manner of lace: knitted lace, bobbin lace, and nature's lace--a delicate spider web. Changing exhibits feature antique laces and related
items. Lace-making materials are for sale in the shop, as is a nice assortment of antique hat pins and silver pill boxes, and classes are scheduled. C.J. Olson Cherries 348 W. El
Camino Real/Mathilda St., (800) 738-BING, (408) 736-3726, fax (408) 736-1200; www.cjolsoncherries.com. M-Sat 8-7, Sun 8-6. Owned by the Olson family and operated at this location since 1933, this
old-time fruit stand is a blast from the past. It looks a lot like the overwhelmed residence in the favorite children's classic storybook The Little House. Let's hope it can hold out amid the urban
sprawl and construction occurring everywhere around it, because the 1899 farm that once stood where P.F. Chang's Chinese Bistro and a few other chain businesses stand now was torn down in 1999 as the heavens wept.
Actually, this small stand might have a chance, because it was torn down itself and completely rebuilt in 2002. Though not inexpensive, the finest fruit is found here--most especially the biggest, plumpest,
juiciest cherries—and they can all be tasted before purchase. A few of the nine different types of cherries grown are available continuously May through August and in December and January. Most are farmed
along with apricots on 13 acres the family now leases from the city. Additionally, cherry pies, chocolate covered apricots, Medjool dates, and more are for sale, and mail order packages make lovely gifts.
Where to Stay Wild Palms Hotel 910 E. Fremont Ave./Wolfe Rd., off El Camino Real, (800) 538-1600, (408) 738-0500, fax (408) 245-4167; www.wildpalmshotel.com. 208 rooms.
Continental breakfast. Pool, hot tub, fitness room. Painted banana yellow and sporting a peachy beachy ambiance, this 2-story '50s-style motel has been converted into a tropical confection.
Guests are greeted by a Hawaiian-style open-air lobby, and exotic tropical flowers and colors are found throughout. Whimsy shines through in original murals painted on guest room doors and the occasional
chartreuse stuffed toy snake slithering across the back of a couch. Rooms are far enough back from traffic to be quiet and surround a nicely landscaped garden courtyard with a hot tub and pool sporting bright
vinyl toys. Where to Eat Tsunami Grill 220 Capella Way, in Town and Country Village shopping center, (408) 773-8776. L M-F, D M-Sat; $. Reservations
accepted. This casual, comfortable Japanese restaurant has a sushi chef and also serves delicious renditions of other favorites, including delicate shrimp and vegetable tempura. A green salad with a
tasty dressing, miso soup, hot tea, and rice are included in dinner prices. SANTA CLARA What to Do Triton Museum of Art 1505 Warburton Ave., across from city
hall, (408) 247-3754; www.tritonmuseum.org. Thur-Tu 10-5, Thur to 9. Free. This small art museum is housed in an award-winning building inspired by early California missions. It boasts a
sculpture garden and is surrounded by 7 landscaped acres featuring several kinds of palm trees and a grove of redwoods. The permanent Austen D. Warburton Collection of American Indian Art and Artifacts displays
objects illustrating the spirituality, traditions, and daily activities of Native Americans, and special exhibits are also scheduled. Where to Stay/Eat Hilton Santa Clara
4949 Great America Pkwy., (800) 321-3232, (800) HILTONS, (408) 330-0001, fax (408) 330-0011; www.santaclara.hilton.com 8 stories, 280 rooms. Heated pool, hot tub; fitness center. Restaurant; room
service. Well-situated across the parking lot from Paramount's Great America and across the street from the Santa Clara Convention Center and a Light Rail stop, this elegant, richly appointed new hotel
serves both the business traveler and leisure traveler. Rooms feature colorful golden granite vanities and original artwork, and some have views of Great America. Santa Clara Marriott 2700
Mission College Blvd., (800) 228-9290, (408) 988-1500; www.santaclaramarriott.com. 15 stories; 754 rooms. Pool, hot tub; 4 lighted tennis courts; health club. Restaurant; room service.
Located adjacent to Great America and the tall, glistening towers of Sun Microsystems, this is the largest hotel in the area. It consists of one 10- and one 15-story tower, plus a 2-story structure surrounding the
pool. Parcel 104 restaurant (2700 Mission College Blvd., (408) 970-6104. B&D daily, L M-F. Valet parking.)
showcases celebrity chef Bradley Ogden's American regional cuisine. It's the kind of place where little forks and spoons appear between courses with an "amuse." The accomplished kitchen produces perfectly seasoned salads and soups, and main courses have included a full-flavored housemade fettucini with spicy lamb sausage and broccoli as well as a rabbit dish seasoned with aged balsamic vinegar. Dessert brings on a fabulous double-chocolate spoonbread, a banana Napoleon, and a homey tapioca pudding. Presentation is faultless, with each dish arranged on the perfect plate, wines poured into the complimentary oversize glass, and the table set with classy Frette linens. Yes! A more informal sushi bar adjoins, and live jazz is often scheduled.
SAN JOSE Where to Eat Hamburger Mary's Closed. (see page 179) GILROY What to Do Bonfante Gardens Theme Park On
Hwy. 152, 3 mi. west of Hwy. 101, (408) 840-7100; www.bonfantegardens.com. Daily 10-10, June-Aug; F, Sat, & Sun, Sept-Dec. Adults $28.95, 65+ $25.95, 3-12 $19.95; parking $7. An undulating
hedge leads the way into this unique horticulturally-inspired amusement park where the theme is trees. Amazingly, the park has only one indigenous tree (located by the Artichoke Dip ride)--all the rest were
transplanted! The park's touted 19 "circus trees" date from the 1920s and were displayed at the Tree Circus in Scotts Valley in the 1940s and '50s. They are grafted into extraordinary shapes and spread
evenly throughout, providing great photo ops. Five themed gardens are also found here and there. In an attempt to educate children about the value of trees, "Learning Sheds" offering shade and short videos are
scattered throughout the 75-acre park. Rides are low-key and old-fashioned but fun, with the Quicksilver Mine Coaster being the fastest and the tamer Timber Twister coaster providing thrills for the little ones in its
tucked-away location. Don't Misses include driving a Chevy Corvette or a Model T-style roadster through a tree tunnel of Italian cypresses and past more than 300 trees on the South County Backroads, and riding the
ornate 1927 M.C. Illions Supreme Carousel. Dining outlets are reasonably priced and offer barbecue, tacos, pasta, deep-fried artichokes, orange freezes, and lots more. Though teens will probably enjoy it
here with their younger siblings, this kinder, gentler theme park is a primo experience for grade schoolers and their parents and for senior citizens. All proceeds go back into the park and into local beautification
projects. 101 NORTH MILL VALLEY Where to Eat Avenue Grill Closed. (see page 193) LARKSPUR Where to Eat El Quijoté
Closed. (see page 198) Left Bank 507 Magnolia Ave./Ward St., (415) 927-3331, fax (415) 927-3034; www.leftbank.com. L & D daily; $$. Highchairs, boosters, child menu.
Reservations advised. Valet parking Fri & Sat D. The vintage 1895 building this atmospheric Parisian-style brasserie is located within, known as the Blue Rock Inn, is in this small town's Historic
District. A restaurant has operated on its ground floor since the early 1900s. The name is derived from the blue rock façade, which was quarried from the base of Mount Tamalpais. Today's airy
restaurant has its original pressed tin ceiling and often greets diners with a welcoming fire in its massive stone fireplace. Theater posters enliven the walls, and clocks above the bar tell time locally as well
as in Tahiti, Montreal, and Lyon (the chef's hometown). In good weather, outdoor dining on the veranda fronting the town's quiet main street is an option. The menu is rustic, unfussy cuisine grand-mère, or
"grandma's cooking," and portions are big. Lunch is sandwiches, a hamburger Américain, salads, and a few entrees. Dinner brings on signature dishes: bouillabaisse, rotisserie chicken, steak
frites. Cocktails include a Pamplemousse (grapefruit vodka with 7-Up) and 12 kinds of pastis. Apple Tarte Tatin, bing cherry clafouti, and molten chocolate cake are among the scrumptious endings.
Special events are often scheduled. TIBURON Where to Stay Waters Edge 25 Main St., (877) 789-5999, (415) 789-5999; www.marinhotels.com. 23 rooms; 100%
non-smoking. All fireplaces. Evening wine, continental breakfast. This hotel takes full advantage of its location on an historic dock jutting into the heart of a picturesque marina by providing
almost every room with a private balcony. Comfortable chaises and cloud-soft beds with fluffy white cotton duvets beg to be plopped upon for a long rest under a cozy camel hair throw. Many rooms have
high-ceilings and are decorated with dark Asian-style furnishings and vintage botanical prints. SAN RAFAEL Where to Eat Casa Mañana 711 D St./2nd St., (415) 456-7345;
and 641 Del Ganado Rd., (415) 479-3032. B,L,&D daily; $. Tucked away in the unlikely interior of a small medical complex, this tiny Salvadoran/Mexican café serves an extensive menu of tasty,
housemade classic fare—including pupusas, tamales, crab enchiladas verde, flautas stuffed with mashed potatos, chalupas—as well as mussels and hamburgers and plenty of vegetarian options. Portions are large and
delicious, and breakfast is served all day. Also at 85 Bolina Rd., Fairfax, (415) 454-2384. PETALUMA Where to Stay Cavanagh Inn
Closed. (see page 204) GUERNEVILLE What to Do/Wineries California Carnivores Closed. (see page 212) Mark West Estate Winery
Closed. (see page 212) HEALDSBURG What to Do/Wineries Belvedere Vineyards & Winery 4035 Westside Rd., (800) 433-8236, (707) 433-8236, fax (707) 431-0826;
www.belvederewinery.com. Tasting daily 10-4:30.
Call in advance to reserve a tour of the elegant, manicured Aroma Garden. Dotted with koi ponds and waterfalls and always open for strolling, it is both relaxing and educational. Sections are devoted to white wines, red wines, and to attracting butterflies and hummingbirds, and the occasional redwood rocking chair invitingly punctuates the landscape. Plans are for this winery to specialize in organic wines.
Where to Stay Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza 110 Matheson St., (800) 431-8663, (707) 433-6991, fax (707) 433-9513; www.healdsburginn.com. 10 rooms. Some
fireplaces. Unsuitable for children. Some gas fireplaces. All VCRs. Afternoon wine and appetizers; evening dessert wine & chocolates; full breakfast. No pets.
Located right on the town square, this 2-story 1900 Victorian was once a stagecoach stop. Rooms, situated mostly on the second floor and reached via a grand staircase, are decorated with authentic Victorian
antiques and feature generously sized bathrooms with resident rubber duckies. The Early Light Room, which has a spectacular skylight, was the town's first photography studio. It just can't get any cozier
than being in the peach-colored Sonnet Room on a rainy morning with the fireplace flickering and the church bells across the plaza ringing out the hour. Breakfast is served in a second-floor solarium overlooking a
row of trees with the town plaza behind, and in summer on an outside deck. A bottomless jar of cookies and a fridge full of cold drinks are always available. The work of local artists decorates each room and
is for sale in a small shop operating in the hotel lobby. Hotel Healdsburg 25 Matheson St., (800) 889-7188, (707) 431-2800, fax (707) 431-0414; www.hotelhealdsburg.com. 3 stories; 55
rooms. Pool; health spa; fitness center. Breakfast; restaurant; room service. Featuring a stylish contemporary decor, with Tibetan rugs on its polished wood floors, this luxurious new hotel fronts
on the plaza. Subdued rooms are appointed with the best linens and oversize soaking tubs, and breakfast is delivered to the room. In summer, movies are screened outdoors under the stars, and live jazz is
also sometimes presented.
The lobby Grappa Bar serves refreshments fireside or on a screened porch, weather permitting, and the casual Newsstand Cafe
serves espresso, panini, and housemade gelato. Celebrity chef Charlie Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen (L&D daily)
uses the best local ingredients for his innovative menu, which changes daily. Past items have included the delicious likes of baby beet salad with goat cheese, tortellini stuffed with roasted cauliflower in a browned butter-Cabernet sauce, and duck with pomegranate-molasses glaze. A tasting menu is also available. Seating in the sophisticated dining room is comfortable, and diners get a glimpse of the busy kitchen through a frosted glass wall.
Where to Eat Bear Republic Brewing Co. 345 Healdsburg Ave., (707) 433-BEER, fax (707) 433-2205; www.BearRepublic.com. Though the dining room is wide-open so
diners can view the brewing vats, this warehouse of a spot still manages to feel cozy. Or perhaps it just seems that way because of the warm greeting provided by its owner. Get acquainted with the house
brews, including the award-winning Red Rocket Ale, with a sampler or try a delicious house-brewed root beer or cream soda. Burgers, sandwiches, and salads are all choice, but more substantial entrees and smaller
appetizer plates--including addictive garlic-chili fries--are on the menu as well. GEYSERVILLE What to Do/Wineries Lake Sonoma Winery 9990 Dry Creek
Rd., (707) 431-15509, fax (707) 431-8356; www.lakesonomawinery.net. Tasting daily 10-5; tours by appt.
Featuring a dramatic view of the Dry Creek Valley, this winery is known for its Zinfandels, Cabernet Sauvignons, and Chardonnays and was the first in the country to produce the rich Zinfandel-like Cinsault varietal. The winemaker makes "wines I like to drink," and so does everyone else who tastes them. Tasters can picnic on a porch overlooking the vineyards.
HOPLAND Where to Eat The Cheesecake Lady Closed. (see page 225) I-80 NORTH BERKELEY Where to Eat
The Counter Closed. (see page 259) Grégoire 2109 Cedar St./Shattuck Ave., (510) 883-1893, fax (510) 883-1894; www.gregoirerestaurant.com. L&D M-Sat. This
upscale hole-in-the-wall is the source of accomplished French take-out fare, and it must be good because California Cuisine guru Alice Waters is a customer. Everything is made from scratch with fresh local
ingredients and prepared by Chef Grégoire himself. A few tables are available for dining, but it's more fun to fax in an order and pick it up dressed in charming eight-sided corrugated boxes made of recycled
material (this is Berkeley). The monthly menu is posted conveniently at the website with a downloadable, faxable order form. A recent dinner started with thick, tasty mushroom soup, moved on to
falling-off-the-bone-tender braised lamb shank Provencale and crispy round potato puffs, and ended with an impossibly flaky housemade apple tarte tatin. Have merci! This is not
your usual take-out. Juan's Place 941 Carleton/9th St., (510) 845-6904. L M-F, D daily; $. Always bustling, this family-friendly spot is reminiscent of a Mexican
roadhouse. It serves traditional, delicious Mexican food, and all the usual suspects are on the menu: burritos, tacos, tostadas, quesadillas, tamales, fajitas, flautas. Enchiladas come stuffed with the
usual as well as crab or shrimp and are topped with a variety of sauces, including a deep, smoky mole. Heavier meat entrees and several chiles are also options, as is a horchata rice drink and a caramel flan
dessert. Mazzini Closed. (see page 261) Phoenix Next Door 1786 Shattuck Ave./Francisco St, (510) 883-0783, fax same. L M-Sat; $. No cards.
Operating as an adjunct to the popular Phoenix Pastificio
pasta shop that provides creative pastas to many Bay Area restaurants, this simple cafe's changing menu permits trying some of the finished wares on-site. After lunching on delicious potato bread rolls and olive bread panini, a perfectly dressed organic mixed green salad, and a plate of whole wheat spaghettini with basil-arugula pesto and slow-roasted tomatoes, one happy customer who just couldn't get enough stopped by the retail counter and purchased cut-to-order porcini pappardelle to take home for dinner the next evening. Yum!
Picnic Pick-Ups.
2905 College Ave./Ashby Ave., (510) 849-2701; and 1843 Solano Ave., (510) 559-6860; www.agferrari.com. Dine in or take away a picnic from this totally Italian
deli. Housemade fresh pastas include a delectable pappardelle that is even better topped with the housemade meat sauce. A specialty olive bar holds particularly good black olives with almonds, and
the deli case always has an assortment of tempting salads and entrees.
Made to Order Closed. (see page 262)
Santa Fe Bar & Grill Closed. (see page 263) Xanadu Closed. (see page 265) Zax Tavern 2826 Telegraph Ave./Oregon St., (510) 848-9299, fax (510)
848-1220; www.zaxtavern.com. D Tu-Sat; $$. Reservations advised. Formerly established in North Beach, this popular restaurant moved in 2002 to this casual, yet sophisticated East Bay
location. The marble-topped tables and Florentine-style woodwork decor were designed by Berkeley Mills, and original art colorfully accents the walls. Cocktails, wine, and, of course, a variety of beers are
available from a full bar in the entry. The menu of well-priced, seasonal cuisine includes a signature baked goat cheese soufflé appetizer (the recipe appears in Gourmet magazine's December 1994 issue) and hearty
entrees such as a thick, herb-crusted Niman Ranch pork chop and a fall lamb stew. A burger, sandwiches, and vegetable sides are also on the menu. IN BETWEEN VALLEJO
What to Do Mare Island Historic Park (707) 557-1538, fax (707) 552-3266; www.mareislandhpf.org. Tour: (707) 644-4746; by donation, $10, 6-12 $5; reservations required.
Historic Mare Island, the West Coast's first Naval base and shipyard, was founded in 1854 to fend off pirates who were then roaming the local seas. Interestingly, it is named after a female horse that swam to the
island. Over a period of 142 years, 513 ships were built here. The base also launched the first U.S. submarine, and the movie Sphere—starring Sharon Stone—was filmed here. Because the island
still has a guarded security gate, the only way to see it is via a guided tour. The 2-hour tour includes seeing world-famous St. Peter's Chapel, built in 1901 and featuring beautiful Tiffany stained-glass
windows and an inverted-keel redwood ceiling (it was the Navy's first inter-denominational chapel); the historic cemetery (burial place of Anna Turner, daughter of Francis Scott Key); and Officer's Row mansions and
gardens. The Admiral's Mansion can be toured for an additional fee ($4). Participants also see Alden Park, which is home to a cannon from the War of 1812, torpedoes from the Civil War, and a
German Marder suicide submarine from 1944. Vallejo Naval and Historical Museum 734 Marin St./Virginia St., (707) 643-0077, fax (707) 643-2443; www.vallejomuseum.org. Tu-Sat
10-4:30. $2, seniors $1, under 13 free. Operating inside the town's former City Hall, this museum's treasures include a working submarine periscope that pokes through the roof and provides a view of Mare
Island. I-880 SOUTH OAKLAND What to Do Pardee Home Museum 672 11th St./Castro St., across the street from Preservation Park, (510) 444-2187, fax
(510) 444-7120; www.pardeehome.org. Tours hourly on W, F, & Sat, 12-4; reservations recommended. Adults $5, under 13 $3. Home to three generations of the Pardee family, this house was
lived in by Enoch Pardee (mayor of Oakland in the mid-1870s) and his son, George C. Pardee (mayor of Oakland in the early 1890s and then governor of California from 1903 to 1907). More than 50,000 pieces of family
memorabilia and historical artifacts are displayed just as they were left when the home was donated, and all the furniture is original to the house. A unique Carleton Watkins light fixture hangs in the downstairs
hallway. The expansive grounds hold a mature and lovely Coastal Redwood. Preservation Park 13th St./Martin Luther King Jr. Way, (510) 874-7580; www.preservationpark.com. This
group of 16 exquisite Victorian houses was originally scheduled to be demolished by Highway 980, but a public outcry caused the freeway to be moved over a block and they were saved. Five distinct domestic
architectural styles from 1870 to 1910 are represented. Those on the north side of the street are in their original positions, while the rest were moved from other parts of the city. Rented out by the city
to non-profits for office space, the houses are restored only on the outside. The area is blocked off to traffic and is beautifully landscaped with posh lawns, palms, and pines plus one gorgeous 19th-century
fountain. A cafe in one house serves weekday lunch. Parkway Speakeasy Theater 1834 Park Blvd./near Lake Merritt, (510) 814-2400; www.picturepubpizza.com. Daily. $5;
must be 21 or older. Munch on pizza and enjoy a brew with a view of first-run, second-run, and classic flicks. At this beautifully restored theater, viewers sit on comfortable couches. For evening
showings, viewers must be 21 or older. The Baby Brigade occurs Mondays at 6:30 p.m. and 7. Babies and their attendant noises are welcome then, and they are admitted free.
Redwood Regional Park 7867 Redwood Rd., (510) 562-PARK; www.ebparks.org. Daily 5am-10pm. $4/vehicle. This unassuming park is full of surprises. It holds a grove of second-growth
redwood trees—a remnant of the solid redwood forest that was harvested long ago to build homes in San Francisco--and has the only fish ladder in the Bay Area, where rainbow trout spawn. A Forest Festival is
sometimes held in the fall. Where to Eat A Cote 5478 College Ave./Taft Ave., (510) 655-6469. L Thur-Sat, D Tu-Sun, SunBr; $$. No reservations. Who
doesn't like sitting in a dimly lit room buzzing with excitement? Choose the bar, smaller side tables, or a central communal table in this bistro, where the ever-changing menu consists of rustic French and Spanish
small plates meant to be shared. All seem to be winners, but the don't-misses include pommes frittes with aioli, a dish of marinated olives, and any of the flatbreads. A selection of cheeses and a long list
of wines and spirits add to the hum. Designated drivers aren't denied drink delights--try a tasty Gewurztraminer grape juice served up in a martini glass—and desserts might include a Meyer lemon curd tart or a
plate of profiteroles stuffed with banana nut ice cream. Caffe Verbena 1111 Broadway, downtown, (510) 465-9300, fax (510) 465-9302; www.caffeverbena.com. L&D M-F; $$.
Booths. Featuring a wide-open room with a low-key bar and a comfy dining room, the busy kitchen here whips up some yummy fare. Artichoke fritters with lemon aioli and wild mushroom pizza both make
great starters. Main courses include bouillabaisse, achiote roasted chicken, and flat iron steak with green peppercorn sauce. To wash it down, choose from cocktails and a large selection of wines and
beers. Huynh (pronounced "hoin") 381 15th St./Franklin St., (510) 832-5238. L daily, D Sat. The large, open, butterscotch-colored dining room here is
furnished with jack wood tables and chairs made by the owner's family in Viet Nam. (Customers can place special orders.) Portions are large and service is fast. Among the outstanding Vietnamese
items on the menu are deep-fried imperial rolls, lotus root salad served with shrimp crackers and topped with peanuts, hot and sour soup, shrimp with coconut milk over rice vermicelli, and a vegetarian special
consisting of tofu sautéed with eggplant and onions. Pho noodle dishes, rice plates, and all kinds of teas--including exotic French iced black coffee and lotus leaf hot tea--are also on the exceptional menu.
I-5 NORTH YREKA Grandma's House 123 E. Center St., 530-842-5300; B-L-D daily; $. Booths. Cozy and welcoming, with Tiffany-style lamps and floral
wallpaper, Grandma's House is just like, well, Grandma's house. It's been family-run since 1977. The breakfast menu offers goodies such as buttermilk hot cakes with housemade boysenberry syrup and is served
until 1 p.m. The lunch menu, which is a large selection of sandwiches and a salad bar, is available through dinner, when housemade biscuits, fried chicken, grilled pork chops and more substantial items are also
options. Do save room for a slice of housemade pie. A cookbook featuring simple recipes used in the restaurant makes a great souvenir. SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAINS LOS GATOS
Where to Stay Hotel Los Gatos 210 E. Main St., (866) 335-1700, (408) 335-1700, fax (408) 335-1750; www.hotellosgatos.com. 72 rooms. Pool; hot tub; sauna; fitness room; health
spa. Restaurant; room service. Located just down the street from a Ferrari/Bentley showroom, this luxurious hotel has a rustic Italian-country style. Public spaces are decorated with Mexican tiles
and pottery, studded leather chairs, and ornate Moroccan wood-inlayed tables. This Mediterranean hacienda melds the two architectural styles, with a terracotta tiled roof and spacious interior courtyards with palm
trees and fountains. Traditional art is displayed throughout. Guest rooms are furnished luxuriously with colorful silk drapes and comforters, soft Egyptian cotton linens, and tile-and-granite bathrooms, and
they are equipped with high-speed internet connections and DVD and CD players. Movies and music can be borrowed at no charge. Kuleto's ((408) 354-8290) restaurant features Italian fare.
Where to Eat Good Earth Closed. (see page 341) SAN LORENZO VALLEY What to Do San Lorenzo Valley Museum 12547 Hwy. 9, in Boulder Creek,
(831) 338-8382, fax (831) 338-8332; www.slvmuseum.com. W, F, Sat, Sun 12-4. Free. Situated within a church built completely of precious heart of redwood in 1885, this museum shows rare
photographs of the area's early logging days. A recreated early-1900s kitchen and a Victorian parlor are also displayed. A self-guided walking tour of historical Boulder Creek is available here. Where to Stay Felton Crest Inn 780 El Solyo Heights Dr., in Felton, (800) 474-4011, (831) 335-4011, fax: 831-335-4011; www.feltoncrest.com. 4 rooms;
$$$+. Unsuitable for small children. 1 wood-burning stove. Continental breakfast. No smoking; no pets. Situated up a hill, at the end of a private road in a rural residential area, this
B&B is surrounded by an acre of redwoods. A contemporary brown-shingled mountain house with mustard-yellow trim, it is reminiscent of lodgings found in Germany's Black Forest. Public spaces include a big
sundeck, a sheltered tea area with a hammock, and a cheery breakfast room. Beds are made with soft featherbeds and topped with pouffy white duvets—all covered with lovely cut-lace linens. It's like being on
Mick's cloud. The third-floor Treetop Penthouse has a knotty-pine cathedral ceiling with exposed rafters, a stained glass window, and a private deck open to the fragrant tall trees. Deeply dark, silent
nights are part of the deal. Where to Eat The Brook Room 11570 Hwy. 9, in Brookdale, (831) 338-6433, fax (831) 338-3066; www.brookdalelodge.com. D W-Sun,
SunBr; $-$$$. Child menu. A natural brook flows right through the center of this unique dining room that has been around almost forever. Once mentioned in "Ripley's Believe It or Not," it must be
seen to be believed. Diners sit streamside, enjoying the pleasant, continuous sound of water rushing over stones and viewing the occasional trout. A well-priced champagne brunch buffet is available on
Sundays, while dinner brings on a more expensive surf and turf menu. Prime Rib is a bargain on Thursdays, and live jazz begins at 5 p.m. on Sundays. Brookdale Lodge (46 rooms;
$-$$$. Children under 13 free. Indoor heated pool. Restaurant. No pets.). Built as the headquarters for a lumber mill in 1870 and converted into a hotel in 1900, this complex features
standard '50s-style motel rooms and cottages. Some family rooms and two theme suites--the Marilyn Monroe Suite and the Enchanted Forest Suite—are available. Pool hours vary by season and are subject to
lifeguard availability. Ciao! Bella!! 9217 Hwy. 9, in Ben Lomond, (831) 336-9221, fax (831) 336-4561. L-D daily; $$. Reservations advised. "We are the people our parents warned us
against," promises the menu. That might be referring to the slightly off-center waitstaff. They sing. They dance. They have tattoos. Funky is an understatement, but fun isn't, what with
parking spaces reserved for Elvis and Fonzie and the gang. Though seating inside is cozy and atmospheric, dining outside on the deck within a natural cathedral circle of tall, tall redwood trees is not to be
missed. But most importantly the food is good, and each meal begins with bread and an addictive dipping sauce of fresh garlic mixed at table with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Menu choices include pasta
aplenty, plus an assortment of salads and heavier meat dishes. Picnic Pick-Up.
- New Leaf Community Market
13159 Hwy. 9, in Boulder Creek, (831) 338-7211; also at 6240 Hwy. 9, in Felton, (831) 335-7322. Everything needed for a delicious, healthy picnic and more is
found in this popular local grocery.
WINE COUNTRY GLEN ELLEN Where to Eat The Bistro Closed. (see page 361) NAPA What to Do Copia 500 First St./east
of Hwy.29, (707) 259-1600; www.copia.org. Thur-M, 10-5. Adults $12.50, students & seniors $10, 6-12 $7.50. Someone made the delicious comment that without food we cannot live, without wine we
cannot endure, and without art we cannot evolve. How true. Here to cover all the bases is COPIA: The American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts. Situated on 12 acres beside the Napa River,
this new center celebrates American achievements in the culinary, winemaking, and visual arts. It was founded and mostly funded by Robert and Margrit Mondavi. Among interesting exterior architectural
features are random-patterned fitted stone walls representing the past and a metal crescent representing the future. Admission includes daily educational programs, garden tours, and classes covering topics such as
wine etiquette, how to taste wine, and how to visit a winery. Though it has no permanent art collection, works on loan are found throughout. A long-term exhibition, "Forks in the Road: Food, Wine and the
American Table," offers a light-hearted yet serious look at the place of food and wine in American life today and provides many interactive opportunities. At additional charge, cooking classes, dinners, concerts, and
Friday Flicks are also scheduled. There is no admission charge for visitors who want just to enjoy a gourmet meal in Julia's Kitchen (Julia Child is an honorary trustee) or a more casual repast in the
American Market Cafe, or to shop in the cleverly named Cornucopia. All proceeds benefit this non-profit center. Where to Eat Tuscany 1005 First St./Main St.,
downtown, (707) 258-1000, fax (707) 256-3575. L M-F, D daily; $$-$$$. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations advised. This inviting restaurant operates inside a substantial, wide-open space that
retains the 1855 building's original hardwood floors and brick walls. It has no trouble mixing modern and new with cozy and warm. Servers wear casual blue work shirts, and tables are covered with butcher
paper. The restaurant is wildly popular with locals, and lots of families dine here. Indeed, animated diners are content to eat in the bar when the main room is full. The Mediterranean menu includes
pizzas made in a wood-fired oven and both grilled and rotisserie meats. Among the possibilities for starters are a fig-and-walnut salad with baby arugula or a butter lettuce salad with fresh pears and candied
walnuts; for entrees, a superb half-moon ravioli in a light sage cream sauce or a spice-rubbed rotisserie chicken with perfect, creamy baby Yukon potatoes. OAKVILLE Where to Eat
Pometta's Deli Closed. (see page 372) YOUNTVILLE Where to Eat The Diner Closed. (see page 369) ST. HELENA Where to Eat Brava Terrace Closed. (see page 374) Martini House 1245 Spring St./Oak St., (707) 963-2233, fax (707) 967-9237; www.martinihouse.com. L&D daily; $$$.
Reservations advised. Decorated in a sort of contemporary hunting lodge-style by Pat Kuleto, restaurant decorator extraordinaire and local resident, this satisfying venue for celebrity chef
Todd Humphries is just one block from downtown. On a nice day, diners can opt to sit at cherry-red enamel tables in the arbor-sheltered patio or under mature trees in the converted 1920s bungalow's front
yard. A large 75-year-old fountain populated with koi acts as a soothing kid magnet. The wine list is excellent, and the daily-changing menu always is interesting. A recent delicious fixed-price lunch
included creamy mushroom soup, a shrimp salad, and fabulous creme fraiche ice cream with berries and wild flower-honey cake. An a la carte lunch was composed of tempura-fried soft shell crab, a tender navarin of
lamb, and an almond-rhubarb tart. Surprise touches included warm steamed milk in the cream pitcher and coffee served in a French presse pot. The low-ceilinged downstairs bar is worth a look-see if only to
view the acorn-mimicking light fixtures. |
